The gentle lilt of a flute fills a cramped second-story space in Tokyo, home to a bubbling vat of fermenting sake. The bacteria in the 670-liter tank will take over two weeks to transform its contents of rice and water into Japan’s traditional alcoholic beverage. But these microorganisms are not only alive; they are also listening, says brewer Yoshimi Terasawa. The type of music emanating from a loudspeaker below the tank influences the final taste of the sake. “The micro-organisms inside are activated by the vibrations, and the taste changes,” explains the 63-year-old chief brewer of Tokyo Port Brewing.
Music is just one of the unconventional techniques Terasawa employs at the only sake factory in the heart of Japan’s capital. Nestled in a narrow four-story building, this small-batch operation uses innovative methods to help the industry withstand the impacts of climate change. The brewery utilizes modified machinery and ergonomic processes that consume less energy and labor compared to traditional open-air breweries in the countryside. “Making sake on this kind of smaller scale makes it easier to keep the production environment constant,” says Terasawa, a 45-year industry veteran.
Tokyo Port Brewing produces about 30 kiloliters of sake annually, enough to fill nearly 42,000 720-ml bottles. However, the industry faces declining demand due to changing consumer tastes and Japan’s aging population. The government reports that the number of sake breweries has decreased by two-thirds since the 1970s peak, leaving just over 1,100 today, more than half of which operate at a loss. Additional challenges include a labor shortage as brewers retire, rising fuel costs, and disruptions in rice supply caused by global warming.
Terasawa believes his compact brewery offers a model to address these challenges. By maintaining a controlled production environment, the brewery can produce high-quality sake consistently. The use of music to influence fermentation adds a unique touch that distinguishes Tokyo Port Brewing in the competitive market.
Moreover, the brewery’s energy-efficient processes and reduced labor requirements make it a sustainable option in an industry struggling with environmental and economic pressures. As traditional methods become less viable, innovative approaches like those at Tokyo Port Brewing may become essential for the survival and growth of sake production.
By embracing modern techniques and adapting to the changing landscape, Terasawa’s brewery demonstrates a forward-thinking approach to an age-old craft. This blend of tradition and innovation could serve as a blueprint for other sake producers facing similar challenges.
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