The Hollywood blockbuster, Barbie, has sparked numerous discussions in China, not just because of its feminist undertones, but also due to its profuse use of the color pink. The prevalent use of pink in the film has ignited an interest in the historical significance and evolution of the color within Chinese culture.
Modern society predominantly associates pink with femininity and blue with masculinity. However, this classification of colors by gender only started taking root just before World War I, particularly in the West. The gender-specific identification of pink began in the 1940s, primarily as a marketing ploy used by American manufacturers and retailers targeting the children’s apparel segment.
However, China’s relationship with the color pink has deep historical roots, dating back to ancient times. Traditionally, the various shades of pink were often named after natural objects from which they were derived. One example is the salmon-tinted shade called Haitianxia or “rosy clouds between sea and sky”, which was crafted during the Ming dynasty (1368-1644) to emulate the enchanting hues of a sunset.
Another ancient shade of pink, reminiscent of peach blossoms, has been symbolically linked to charming women since the Spring and Autumn Period (about 771 to 476BC), predating the Western association of the color with femininity by several centuries. The ancient Chinese Book of Songs contains poetic allusions to peach blossom shades, drawing parallels between the vibrant flowers and a bride’s beauty. This poetic association later influenced the Tang dynasty (618-907) craftsmen, who mixed red pigments derived from plants like Rubia cordifolia and safflower with lead white to create a popular cheek rouge.
Yet, pink in ancient China wasn’t exclusively feminine. The shade known as qian fei, a light crimson, symbolized power and masculinity. This was evident in its use for the official uniforms of the fifth-grade officials during the Tang dynasty. Furthermore, in traditional Peking Opera, pink adorned the facial masks of elderly male characters.
China’s perception of pink experienced a shift with the introduction of Western fashion and culture during the late 1970s. The color began to be recognized for its contemporary connotations of being trendy, sometimes even ostentatious. This newfound appreciation was evident when Apple, tapping into the Chinese market’s preference, launched a rose gold iPhone 6s in 2015.
In recent years, the term “Little Pink”, translated from xiao fenhong, has emerged to describe a group of young, ardently patriotic Chinese netizens defending their nation’s image online.
The film, Barbie, with its impressive box office performance in China, has not just made an impact with its feminist messaging but also reinforced the cultural and historical significance of the color pink. The popularity has even influenced a dress code among moviegoers, who flaunt Barbie pink at theaters, thereby rekindling childhood memories of playing with shanzhai, or imitation Barbie dolls. The movie has empowered many Chinese women by subverting the previous notion of pink as a flashy color contradicting the idea of independent women.
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