London’s pastry scene has been captivated by a new, larger-than-life culinary creation: the Croissant XXL by baker Philippe Conticini. This mammoth pastry, measuring about 18 inches in length and resembling the size of a small dog, has become a sensation on UK TikTok since its debut at Philippe Conticini’s bakery in late July.
A Croissant Like No Other: Priced at £25, nine times the cost of a regular-sized croissant at the same bakery, the Croissant XXL presents a unique challenge to conventional baking wisdom. Its size raises questions about the feasibility of achieving the perfect bake – a crisp, flaky exterior with a fully cooked, airy interior – without burning the crust.
Expert Analysis by Verena Lochmuller: To evaluate this colossal creation, Verena Lochmuller, head of development at the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen, conducted a taste test. Known for their sold-out croissants across Ottolenghi stores in the city, Lochmuller’s expertise offers a credible assessment of the XXL’s culinary merit.
Transported to the Test Kitchen: The Croissant XXL journeyed from Conticini’s Camden High Street storefront to the Ottolenghi Test Kitchen for evaluation. The pastry also retails in Paris as the Croissant XL, albeit at a higher price, but is no smaller than the London version.
First Impressions and Tasting: Despite initial skepticism, Lochmuller was impressed with the croissant’s surprisingly light weight, an indicator that it might be well-baked despite its size. Upon cutting into it, the layers billowed out, suggesting proper cooking. The ends of the croissant revealed the expected crusty flakiness and buttery sweetness.
Quality Surpasses Expectations: Lochmuller found the croissant’s taste to be better than anticipated, comparing favorably with smaller pastries from reputable places. While it lacked the plushness of the finest croissants, the XXL’s quality was commendable given its enormity.
No Plans for Competition at Ottolenghi: Although Lochmuller sees potential in the Croissant XXL as a unique brunch centerpiece, she expresses no intention to create a similar offering at Ottolenghi, noting the bakery’s different style.
Value for Money: The £25 price tag, according to Lochmuller, is reasonable for such a novel and attention-grabbing pastry, particularly considering the amount of butter used in its preparation. She even suggests it could have been priced higher and still found buyers.
The Croissant XXL stands as a testament to London’s evolving and adventurous pastry scene. Its popularity and Lochmuller’s positive review highlight a trend towards culinary innovation and the willingness of Londoners to embrace unconventional food experiences. As a focal point for brunch or a conversation starter, the Croissant XXL is more than just a pastry – it’s a statement piece in the world of baking.
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