Launching a restaurant in New York City’s fiercely competitive market is a formidable challenge, particularly when introducing a less familiar cuisine to the local palate. This is the ambitious endeavor of Naks, a new Filipino fine-dining restaurant in the East Village. Opened on December 5, Naks is the latest venture by the team behind successful Indian restaurants Adda, Dhamaka, and Semma. However, Naks marks their first foray into Filipino cuisine, a bold leap considering the distinct culinary tradition it represents.
Naks’ daring is epitomized in its tasting menu, priced at a premium $135 per person. Chef Eric Valdez, hailing from Makati in the Philippines and an alumnus of the American Hospitality Academy’s culinary school, curates a menu that features unconventional ingredients like beef blood, bull’s penis and testicles, and notably, bovine bile. These ingredients, integral to Southeast Asian cuisine for their unique flavor profiles and also utilized in Chinese traditional medicine, are rarely seen in mainstream Western dining.
Chef Valdez’s commitment to authenticity is unwavering. For instance, the sisig at Naks, a beloved Filipino street food, incorporates traditional ingredients such as pig’s brains, minced ears, snout, and jowls, rather than resorting to substitutes like mayonnaise. This approach aligns with the philosophy of Unapologetic Foods, under which Naks operates, emphasizing genuine, unmodified culinary experiences.
The idea for Naks came to fruition when Valdez, who had become integral to Dhamaka, was recognized as ready to helm his own venture by Roni Mazumdar, CEO of Unapologetic Foods, and his partner Chintan Pandya. The restaurant’s name, derived from a Tagalog expression of surprise and amazement, mirrors the reaction of many to its innovative dishes.
At Naks, patrons can savor exquisitely prepared roast pork belly, grouper with mayo and pickled vegetables, and salads featuring bitter gourd. These dishes not only tantalize the taste buds but also challenge preconceived notions about Filipino food, typically not associated with fine dining.
Naks offers a space that is more cozy than opulent, with a separate area for the tasting menu and a bar for à la carte diners. Notably, the restaurant encourages eating kamayan style – by hand – with many dishes served on banana leaves, a traditional Filipino practice. The forthcoming à la carte menu includes unique items like Soup No. 5 made with bull’s genitals and ihaw ihaw (grilled) dishes, along with a solo dessert option, taisan.
The drink pairing, priced at $80, includes cocktails, wine, and beer, thoughtfully curated to complement the bold flavors of the dishes. The selection of beverages, primarily from Spain, Japan, and the US, pays homage to the countries that have influenced Filipino history.
In its audacious embrace of authenticity, Naks is not just a restaurant; it’s a statement about the richness and potential of Filipino cuisine. It’s a venture that invites New Yorkers to expand their culinary horizons and experience the unexplored depths of Filipino gastronomy. As such, Naks stands as a testament to the evolving landscape of New York’s dining scene, where boldness and authenticity are celebrated.
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