As soon as you enter The Market at Hotel Icon in Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong, the distinctive aroma of durian greets you. For Executive Chef Danny Ho, who has spent much of his life working with the fruit, the smell is hardly noticeable. “If you want an intense durian flavor, try this paste,” says Ho, offering a bowl of the fruit’s flesh. “Guests love it with durian ice cream.”
Known as the “Durian Prince,” Ho has a deep passion for the fruit. He has created a caricature of himself, which appears on his uniform and dishes at The Market, as well as on his business card, which humorously reads “Unlimited Credit Of Joy.”
Ho’s journey with durian began in southern England, where he and his partner Richard Tam Chun-long hosted gatherings. Upon returning to Hong Kong, they struggled to find a cozy, intimate spot where they could host friends due to the city’s small apartments. This led them to create The Holywell’s, a café by day and speakeasy by night, inspired by their home in London’s Chelsea neighborhood.
In The Market, Ho’s influence is evident in dishes like matcha durian mochi balls, flaky durian Portuguese egg tarts, and durian cheesecakes. These items are part of the “All About Durian Afternoon Tea,” available until September 29, and the Malaysian Durian Festival, held on selected dates in August.
The festival features a platter of five Malaysian durians, showcasing Ho’s ability to present durian to both enthusiasts and skeptics. Non-durian options like fried chicken and spring rolls are also available. Ho’s decision to focus on durian has paid off, with the afternoon tea becoming a massive hit.
Trained as a pastry chef at Ecole Bellouet Conseil in Paris, Ho wanted to stand out in Hong Kong’s competitive afternoon tea scene. He combined French pastry techniques with Asian ingredients, perfectly aligning with Hotel Icon’s innovative ethos.
Ho continues to experiment with durian, using freeze-dried durian to create biscuits and tuiles, and incorporating the fruit’s seeds and shells in a double-boiled soup. The soup, based on traditional Chinese medicine principles, helps cool the body and is a new addition to the afternoon tea menu.
Dishes like pan-fried Hokkaido scallops with durian mango salad and pandan durian roulade with pork floss highlight Ho’s creativity. The festival menu also includes baked lobster with Musang King durian and durian ice-cream cendol, a popular Southeast Asian dessert.
Ho’s dedication to quality is evident in his relationships with durian farmers, ensuring the best products for Hotel Icon. “I want to help Malaysian farmers increase their income and always thank them for their hard work,” he says, adding that the hotel uses about 1.5 tonnes of fresh durian paste each month.
For Ho, cultivating these relationships is vital to maintaining the high standards of his durian-centric creations, which continue to delight and surprise guests at The Market.
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