Tea production in Sri Lanka is a labor-intensive process that involves much more than simply growing and processing the leaves. Covering 65,610 square kilometers, Sri Lanka is responsible for almost 12% of the world’s tea exports. One of the country’s most prominent tea-growing areas is Bogawantalawa, known for its fertile soil and its designation as the “Golden Valley.” The name “Bogawantalawa” comes from the Sinhala words for “god” and “valley,” reflecting its revered status in the country.
Historically, Sri Lanka was a major coffee producer, but a devastating coffee rust epidemic in the late 19th century pushed the country to shift to tea cultivation. Scottish planter James Taylor introduced tea plants to the island, and they thrived, making Sri Lanka a leading producer of high-quality tea. Today, the island is synonymous with Ceylon tea, a brand known for its exceptional quality.
The process of harvesting tea is still done mostly by hand, especially in places like the Bogawantalawa Tea Estate. While modern machinery could speed up the process, hand-picking allows for selective harvesting, which preserves the quality of the tea. Workers, mostly women, carry baskets strapped to their heads, often plucking as much as 20kg of leaves per day. After the leaves are harvested, they are withered, rolled, and fermented, depending on the type of tea being produced. Green tea, for example, skips the fermentation process.
Once processed, the tea is graded and auctioned, with buyers bidding on lots that meet their quality and price requirements. The auction process is dynamic, with brokers representing estates and buyers seeking the best tea. From there, the tea is packaged and shipped worldwide, with some estates also creating blends for other brands.
Tea tasting is an essential part of the process. Tea masters at Bogawantalawa taste up to 2,000 samples a day. This process involves slurping the tea to evaluate its color, brightness, and flavor. Over the course of a year, the flavor profile of the tea can change, so constant adjustments are necessary to ensure the final product maintains its high standards.
In Sri Lanka, chefs are also incorporating tea into their dishes. At Teardrop Hotels, dishes such as seared tuna crusted with silver-tip tea and fish cooked with tea pesto are part of an innovative culinary approach that showcases the country’s rich tea culture. This highlights the considerable human effort involved in every cup of tea, from the field to the kitchen.
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