Nestled in the bustling district of Wan Chai, Hong Kong, lies the Southorn Playground, a popular recreational space with a fascinating historical link to Sri Lanka, about 3,900km away. Named after Sir Wilfred Thomas Southorn, Hong Kong’s colonial secretary in 1934, the playground’s origins are intertwined with Southorn’s early career and personal life in Sri Lanka, where he met his wife, Bella Woolf.
Bella Woolf, an accomplished writer, and her brother, literary figure Leonard Woolf, played significant roles in Southorn’s life during his tenure in British Ceylon (now Sri Lanka). Her 1914 travel guide to Sri Lanka, “How to see Ceylon,” offers a unique insight into the country’s cultural and natural wonders, providing a Hong Kong perspective on the Pearl of the Indian Ocean.
The Grand Oriental Hotel in Colombo, where Bella Woolf initially stayed, marks the start of her Sri Lankan journey. Despite its faded grandeur, the hotel’s marble lobby and notable guests, including Anton Chekhov, remain testaments to its historic charm.
The train journey from Colombo to Kandy, where Leonard Woolf served as a colonial administrator, is a scenic adventure through Sri Lanka’s breathtaking landscapes. Kandy, perched 500 meters above sea level, captivates visitors with its sparkling lake, Kiri Muhuda, and the Sri Dalada Maligawa (Temple of the Tooth), a Unesco heritage site housing a sacred relic of Gautama Buddha.
Accommodation options in Kandy, like the Hotel Suisse, offer glimpses of colonial history, set in sprawling gardens and featuring a grand swimming pool. The Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya, a short tuk-tuk ride from the city, showcase Sri Lanka’s botanical diversity, where Bella Woolf spent many days exploring with her first husband, Robert Heath Lock.
Jaffna, in northern Sri Lanka, holds a significant place in this narrative, as it was where Leonard Woolf and Tom Southorn, Hong Kong’s future colonial secretary, forged their friendship. The Portuguese fort in Jaffna, a testament to the region’s tumultuous history, still stands as a green oasis amidst the city’s hustle.
Leonard Woolf’s postings in Hambantota, off the mainstream tourist path, and the Government Agent’s Official Residence, now a state-owned heritage site, further add to the rich tapestry of this connection.
Bella Woolf’s marriage to Southorn in 1921 in Ceylon marked the beginning of their partnership, which would later influence the establishment of the Southorn Playground in Hong Kong. Their shared love for Sri Lanka’s vibrant landscapes and culture inspired the creation of a space for children’s play and community engagement in Wan Chai.
Tracing the journey of Sir Wilfred Thomas Southorn and Bella Woolf through Sri Lanka reveals a profound connection between the urban landscape of Hong Kong and the natural beauty of the island nation. The legacy of their travels and contributions continues to be celebrated in both regions, bridging cultures and histories across continents.
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