As the 50th anniversary of hip-hop approaches, its unmistakable influence is anticipated to dominate the runway during New York Fashion Week between September 8th and 13th. This event, which showcases the creations of American designers, will be a testament to hip-hop’s enduring legacy on the global fashion scene.
June Ambrose, renowned costume designer, entrepreneur, and Puma’s creative director, emphasized the uniqueness of hip-hop in the fashion sphere. She remarked, “Hip-hop fashion resonates due to its boldness, its unparalleled innovation, and its lyricism. It’s essentially a form of poetry.” Tracing its origins back to August 11, 1973, the hip-hop movement began when DJ Kool Herc pioneered the use of continuous breakbeats on dual turntables at a Bronx party.
Reflecting on the journey of hip-hop fashion, Constance White, fashion connoisseur and author, recalled a pivotal moment: the sight of a quintessential suburban man, complete with a family and a picket fence, sporting Timberland boots. Originally conceptualized for workers, these boots underwent a transformation as they were embraced by rappers, evolving from functional footwear to a potent style emblem. Earlier in the year, the Museum at FIT paid homage to this evolution with an exhibit titled “Fresh, Fly and Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style”. Showcasing pieces like the iconic Dookie chains, door-knocker earrings, and eclectic ensembles spanning decades, the exhibit celebrated hip-hop’s indelible mark on fashion.
However, for Ambrose, the journey of hip-hop in fashion extends beyond just apparel. It’s about challenging, altering, and setting new standards in fashion. She recalls the sartorial shift brought about by artists such as Jay-Z: “By juxtaposing baggy jeans with a button-down shirt, Jay-Z presented a new, refined aesthetic.” A significant contributor to hip-hop’s fashion narrative, Ambrose designed iconic costumes for numerous 1990s hip-hop music videos and offered her styling expertise to stalwarts like Jay-Z, Mariah Carey, and Mary J. Blige.
Now, after five groundbreaking decades, mainstream luxury and retail brands are opting to partner with hip-hop designers rather than merely drawing inspiration. Ambrose encapsulated this sentiment, saying, “We never waited for an invitation from high-end fashion houses. We invested in them, created revolutionary styles that influenced them, and recognized that there was room for all of us in this realm.”
White further accentuated hip-hop’s influence, pointing out its omnipresence, from the editorial rooms to the design studios. The elevation of Virgil Abloh as the inaugural Black creative director for Louis Vuitton’s menswear segment, and his subsequent succession by musician and producer Pharrell Williams, stands as a testament to hip-hop’s monumental influence.
She stated, “These transitions and achievements are rooted in the essence of hip-hop, its culture, and its fashion footprint. It’s crucial that we acknowledge and celebrate these contributions.”
READ MORE: