In the heart of Hong Kong’s bustling SoHo neighborhood, a new cocktail bar named Kinsman has opened its doors, blending Hong Kong folklore with a celebration of Cantonese spirits. Co-founded by Canadian-Chinese food writer Gavin Yeung, Kinsman aims to offer more than just drinks; it’s a journey into the region’s rich history and culture.
Yeung, with a background in food writing for prestigious publications, understands the power of storytelling in creating memorable experiences. This expertise is evident in Kinsman, his first venture into the hospitality industry, which he developed in collaboration with Singular Concepts. The bar stands out for its focus on Cantonese spirits, showcasing a selection that may appear limited but represents a living history of the region’s underappreciated and often misunderstood spirits.
The lineup at Kinsman features unique selections like snake wine from Ser Wong Fun, a snake soup specialist in Hong Kong, mui gwai lo, a rose-scented sorghum spirit, and yuk bing siu, a traditional Cantonese liquor made with steamed rice macerated in pork fat. These spirits, along with a collection of baijiu from various parts of China, embody Yeung’s commitment to prioritizing Cantonese spirits before branching out to those from mainland China, Taiwan, and other parts of Asia.
Yeung’s journey into the world of Cantonese and Chinese spirits began long before Kinsman. As a writer, he always sought to explore overlooked aspects, which led him to discover the intricate label on a bottle of Wing Lee Wai’s yuk bing siu. This discovery prompted research into the absence of locally produced spirits in Hong Kong’s mainstream bars, inspiring him to delve deeper into the world of Cantonese spirits.
During the Covid-19 pandemic, Yeung started experimenting with bartending at home, even creating an online glassware shop, The Fukuokan. His first guest bartender shift at Dio Store in Central was a significant step, leading to more guest appearances at various Hong Kong bars. These experiences, from Dr Fern’s to The Aubrey, and collaborations like the one with Magnolia Lab at Woo Cheong Tea House, were crucial in shaping Yeung’s bartending skills and vision for Kinsman.
Kinsman’s interior, designed in collaboration with Ketty Shan of Atelier Shan, reflects a blend of 50s-style diners and Japanese Showa-era kissaten cafes, avoiding cliché local motifs for a more nuanced aesthetic. The drinks menu, featuring cocktails with a core of Chinese spirits, takes patrons on a journey through forgotten elements of Hong Kong’s culinary heritage. From the Dragon & Phoenix cocktail, a blend of snake wine and cognac-infused oolong tea, to the Milk & Honey and the Kowloon Dairy, each drink is a story in itself, exploring new flavors and forgotten traditions.
Kinsman isn’t just a bar; it’s a sanctuary for the revival and appreciation of Hong Kong’s unique culture, especially as it faces modern challenges. Yeung’s vision for Kinsman is to offer a space where the city’s rich past is celebrated and preserved through innovative cocktails and a thoughtful ambiance, ensuring that the unique culture of Hong Kong continues to be appreciated and remembered.
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