London’s culinary landscape has undergone a remarkable transformation over the years. Once a city with a limited selection of high-quality Asian restaurants, it has now become a vibrant hub of diverse cuisines. However, Geoff and Lucas Leong, culinary entrepreneurs and pioneers in the Asian food scene, believe there is still room for further diversity.
For the past 25 years, the Leong family has played a significant role in introducing various Asian cuisines to London. It all began in 1995 when they opened Koi, a Japanese restaurant. Their latest venture, Alta Foods, launched in 2020 as a food platform that brings authentic Asian dishes like char siu bao and bak kut teh straight to customers’ homes.
Food has always held a special place in the Leong family’s hearts. Geoff, now a 46-year-old restaurateur, recalls the fond memories of eating with his family in Hong Kong. Afternoon tea with his grandparents, especially his grandmother, a renowned actress, was a highlight. His visits to the wet market in Wan Chai as a child taught him the importance of fresh produce.
Growing up in London, Lucas, 20 years younger than Geoff, also developed a deep appreciation for food. Dining at some of the world’s finest restaurants with his parents broadened his perspective. As a teenager, Lucas honed his cooking skills by preparing Sunday roasts for the family, experiencing firsthand the power of food to bring people together.
Geoff’s culinary journey started with a cocktail bar in Soho, but his focus shifted to showcasing regional Chinese cuisine with the opening of Leong’s Legend and Dumplings’ Legend in Chinatown. These restaurants offered authentic Taiwanese cuisine and popularized xiao long bao, or soup dumplings, a decade before the arrival of Din Tai Fung.
In 2022, the Leong brothers took a leap into fine dining with the opening of Taku, an omakase sushi restaurant in Mayfair. Despite the risks and challenges posed by the pandemic, Taku was awarded a Michelin star shortly after its launch. Meanwhile, Lucas ventured into a new business, Alta Foods, providing a culinary marketplace for authentic Asian dishes delivered across Britain.
The Leong brothers’ dedication to diversity in the dining scene is driven by their passion for (re)discovery. They take pride in offering immigrants a taste of home while expanding the horizons of food lovers across the country. Witnessing non-Asians embrace dim sum, a once lesser-known delicacy, is a golden moment for them.
With their continuous innovation and collaboration with talented chefs and independent brands, the Leong brothers are adding to the tapestry of food entrepreneurs raising the bar of culinary diversity in Britain. Their contributions ensure that London remains a thriving culinary Mecca where adventurous and open-minded diners can indulge in a wide range of Asian flavors and experiences.
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