When you stumble upon Hoko Cafe in East London’s vibrant Brick Lane, you enter a space that’s a heartwarming tribute to the traditional cha chaan teng of Hong Kong. At the heart of this venture are co-founders Nicole Ma, a former floral designer, and her husband, Ryan Leung, who’ve poured their love for the Hong Kong diner experience into every aspect of the business.
Nicole and Ryan embarked on this venture out of their shared fondness for nai cha and the absence of a good cup of Hong Kong milk tea in London. Initially, they started brewing their own milk tea at home, carefully crafting it in clear drink pouches that soon caught the attention of their online followers. As demand grew, they began supplying their delectable milk tea to various East and Southeast Asian restaurants and supermarkets around the city, and the business took off.
During the lockdown in 2022, Nicole and Ryan expanded their offerings to include food, hosting a series of successful pop-ups around London. Eventually, they felt confident enough to establish a permanent location, which officially opened its doors in June.
The journey wasn’t without its anxieties. Nicole admits to being nervous about how the public would receive their concept, especially considering they hadn’t lived in the UK for long. However, the cafe has seen an overwhelming response since its opening, attracting queues and garnering positive reviews.
The centerpiece of Hoko Cafe is undoubtedly the traditional Hong Kong-style milk tea, a culinary staple beloved by Hongkongers. The creamy blend of Ceylon tea leaves and black tea leaves, strained multiple times for smoothness and mixed with evaporated or condensed milk, has become a hit among the cafe’s patrons.
Hoko Cafe’s birth comes at a time when an increasing number of Hong Kong residents are moving to Britain following the introduction of a British National Overseas (BNO) visa scheme in 2021. Hoko caters not just to the homesick Hongkongers but also aspires to encapsulate the spirit of Hong Kong’s unique cha chaan teng culture for locals and tourists alike.
In creating the space, Nicole and Ryan enlisted the help of their high-school friend, art director and designer Fibi Kung, who, like them, had moved from Hong Kong. The team put a great deal of thought into every aspect of the cafe, from the interior design evoking nostalgia to the promotional video capturing the essence of Hong Kong’s popular culture.
The authenticity of the Hoko experience goes beyond its visually appealing interiors to its well-curated menu. Rather than trying to modernize or upscale the cha chaan teng, Nicole and Ryan have focused on reproducing the simple yet satisfying sustenance typically found in Hong Kong diners.
The future of Hoko is filled with excitement and possibilities as they continue their culinary exploration of Hong Kong’s past, present, and future. The cafe stands as a symbol of the vibrant fusion of cultures and serves as a tribute to the city they love and the food culture they grew up with.
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