Originating from the tropics and known for its distinctive spiky exterior, the durian holds a reputation of being either deeply loved or fervently disliked. As someone with a strong affinity for this contentious fruit, I eagerly anticipated the chance to sample a durian from Hainan province’s much-touted inaugural major harvest. This was China’s foray into producing the “king of fruits,” a realm typically dominated by nations like Malaysia and Thailand.
Our peers in Shenzhen managed to procure two of these durians, despite the limited availability and slightly elevated price point. One was sent to our Hong Kong office, where I, along with a few adventurous colleagues, readied ourselves for a sensory journey.
Having had the pleasure of savoring the creamy and intensely flavored Musang King (Mao Shan Wang) variety from Malaysia, I naturally tempered my expectations for this new Chinese contender. As we began the process of unveiling its contents, a colleague displayed an impressive and unconventional method of opening the durian using just a small pair of scissors. There were claims that one could even use a single chopstick for this feat, but that’s an experiment for another day.
The first sign that this durian was different came from its scent. A powerful, unique aroma characterizes durians, leading to its prohibition on public transport in various locales, including Singapore where the fruit is widely adored. In our case, the durian’s fragrance was almost nonexistent, detectable only when one was inches away.
Visually, the flesh was a muted shade of yellow, devoid of the rich golden tones associated with more premium durians. Taste-wise, the fruit left much to be desired. Lacking the bold, overpowering flavor of authentic durian, it was a mere whisper of the real thing. The texture was off too—instead of the thick, creamy consistency characteristic of ripe durian, this felt more akin to a semi-ripe banana.
Several taste-testers weighed in, with one stating, “It tastes like nothing.” A common sentiment was its dry, firm texture, and the overall subdued flavor profile.
Yet, in the world of food, tastes are subjective. A colleague from mainland China posited that the subdued taste could be viewed positively, suggesting it could be consumed daily without overwhelming the senses.
Was our experience a consequence of an unripe fruit, or does it signify the broader quality of Hainan’s first major durian crop? While it’s premature to pass a sweeping judgment on the entire harvest, it appears that long-established durian producers in Malaysia and Thailand can rest easy, at least for now.
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