Michael Zee, the British-Chinese food writer behind the popular social media platform SymmetryBreakfast, has released a new cookbook titled Zao Fan: Breakfast of China, offering a deep dive into the rich and varied breakfast traditions across China. The book, born out of serendipitous travel experiences, captures recipes that are both time-honored and innovative, showcasing the unique culinary landscape of Chinese breakfast culture.
In late 2022, while traveling through China’s Yunnan province, Zee stumbled upon a variety of local delicacies that would eventually shape his cookbook. A missed opportunity to photograph meat pies in Guizhou led Zee to an unexpected detour, where he discovered the art of making plum blossom cakes and tofu crafted with crystallized gypsum, a traditional method that has been used for centuries. This chance encounter allowed him to escape a lockdown in Chongqing and instead explore the hidden culinary gems of the Sichuan mountains.
Zee’s book is not just a collection of recipes but a celebration of the people who create them. Featuring QR codes in 43 of the book’s recipes, Zao Fan allows readers to watch videos of local cooks preparing dishes in their own kitchens. This unique blend of travel and cooking offers an authentic glimpse into the daily lives of small-scale entrepreneurs and home cooks across China.
The cookbook highlights the often-overlooked importance of breakfast in Chinese culture. Zee points out that while Western cuisine tends to focus on prestigious evening meals, Chinese breakfasts are a showcase of efficiency, innovation, and deep-rooted tradition. From the labor-intensive preparation of handmade noodles to the quick assembly of street food favorites like jidan hanbao (egg and pork pancakes), the book reveals the skill and care that goes into every morning meal.
Zee also delves into regional specialties, such as the breakfast traditions of the Xibonese people, who migrated from northeast China to Xinjiang centuries ago. The book features their unique recipes, including milk tea and soft, fluffy bread, providing a rare insight into a lesser-known culinary heritage.
One of Zee’s own creations, coffee eggs, reflects the blending of old and new that characterizes Chinese cuisine today. Inspired by traditional tea eggs, Zee infuses the eggs with Yunnan coffee, offering a modern twist on a beloved classic.
Zao Fan: Breakfast of China is more than just a cookbook; it’s a cultural exploration that highlights the evolving nature of Chinese cuisine. As Zee travels from dim sum parlors in Hong Kong to the breakfast markets of Qingdao, he captures the essence of a country where food is not just sustenance but a reflection of history, innovation, and identity.
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