Deep within Central Vietnam’s dense jungle landscape, majestic red-brick temple towers ascend into the sky, offering a stark contrast against the verdant backdrop. These towers, each one adorned with intricate bas-reliefs that tell tales from Hindu mythology, are remnants of the mighty Champa kingdom. Representing more than 70 such relics, these architectural wonders serve as testimonies to a bygone era and the empire that once flourished here.
Dating back nearly 1,700 years, the My Son Sanctuary was chosen as the political and religious epicenter of the Champa dynasty, which extended its influence from the 4th to the 13th centuries. With its origins rooted in the unification of various Cham clans by the Dua clan in the late 2nd century, the Champa kingdom covered vast territories of present-day Vietnam. The predominant state religion was Hinduism, a fact clearly evident in the awe-inspiring mythological scenes etched onto the My Son structures. These temples pay homage to revered Indian deities such as Vishnu, Krishna, and Shiva.
Today, the scenic coastal city of Hoi An draws countless tourists. But the recent restoration of My Son, situated a mere 25km inland, is expected to divert some of that attention. Spanning six years, this restoration initiative was a collaborative effort between Vietnamese authorities and the Archaeological Survey of India, renowned for its prowess in conserving and revitalizing historic structures.
The extensive refurbishment included clearing the sanctuary’s grounds of wild overgrowth and debris, fortifying the fragile towers, and restoring their original splendor. Decades of wear and tear had led to evident cracks in the facades, dislodged bricks, and ragged edges. However, meticulous repair and rigorous cleaning of the detailed carvings have now revealed the structures in all their original glory. An added benefit of the renovation was the discovery of numerous Champa relics, such as sculptures and altars. These invaluable finds have found a home 40km away, at the Da Nang Museum of Cham Sculpture. This museum, with its expansive galleries set in a classic yellow French colonial edifice by the Han River, educates visitors about the symbolic nature of My Son’s towers. These architectural marvels symbolize Mount Meru, Hindu mythology’s celestial axis and the dwelling place of the gods.
Although not as expansive, comparisons of My Son have been made with the legendary 12th-century Angkor Wat temples in Cambodia and Thailand’s Sukhothai, once the heart of the Siam kingdom. Tram Bui, representing Visit Quang Nam, the regional tourism authority, stated, “The renovation has not only unveiled three new clusters of towers, including the prominent Group A temple but has also brought forth countless artifacts.” Bui further elaborated on how these revelations offer travelers an unmatched window into the Champa dynasty’s cultural, religious, and architectural legacies.
The results of the restoration are evident in the surging number of visitors, as highlighted by Le Cong Hoang, proprietor of Vietnam Explore. This travel agency, offering comprehensive six-hour tours of My Son, has witnessed increased interest post-restoration. Beyond exploring the historic site, tourists can now immerse themselves in a traditional Cham-style Apsara dance or embark on a serene boat ride on the Thu Bon River, connecting My Son to Hoi An. Additionally, the recent launch of a multilingual app provides an in-depth audio guide, enriching visitors’ experience by detailing the sanctuary’s architectural nuances, historical significance, and the extensive restoration journey.
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