In the realm of luxury fashion, the devil is truly in the details, and one such detail—the zipper—often plays a pivotal role in distinguishing authentic high-end products from imitations. At the heart of this meticulous craftsmanship is Switzerland’s Riri, a company renowned for its exceptional zippers, snap fasteners, and other intricate components that grace the handbags and garments of leading French and Italian luxury houses.
Riri’s journey in the fashion world is characterized by its collaboration with brand stylists to create bespoke designs. These range from colorful zipper teeth forming unique patterns to pull tabs and sliders that resemble fine jewelry. Such customization requires small-scale production, often starting at batches of 60, a scale at which Riri’s Asian competitors typically don’t operate. This focus on quality over quantity is evident in the pricing, which can range from €2 per zipper to a staggering €20,000 for one made of gold.
For Riri, the emphasis on perfection is non-negotiable. “If you paid thousands of euros for a handbag or a pair of boots, the zipper must be perfect,” says Renato Usoni, president of the luxury division of Riri’s parent company, Swiss conglomerate Oerlikon. This pursuit of excellence is evident in the rigorous machine-testing that Riri zippers undergo, ensuring durability and colorfastness even with extensive use.
The company’s roots date back to 1923 when Swiss businessman Martin Othmar Winterhalter acquired a zipper patent and established a factory in Germany. However, the rise of Nazism prompted Winterhalter to relocate his operation to Ticino, Switzerland, in 1936. Over time, Riri shifted its focus to the luxury market, a strategic move necessitated by the high production costs in Switzerland.
In recent years, Riri has ventured into physical vapor deposition (PVD) technology, thanks to Oerlikon’s expertise in this area. This technology, which involves coating metals to prevent corrosion, initially presented a communication challenge between the industrial and luxury sectors. However, Oerlikon’s acquisition of French company Coeurdor and later Riri in March 2023, bridged this gap. The acquisition enabled Oerlikon to find the right language to cater to the luxury market, as explained by Markus Tacke, chief executive at Oerlikon surface solutions.
Diversifying into luxury is a strategic move for Oerlikon, a staple of Swiss industry since 1906. This shift aims to provide a more stable income stream, especially as many of its activities are sensitive to economic fluctuations. The company’s textile machine equipment division, for example, is currently impacted by inflation-driven consumption drops.
Oerlikon’s foray into luxury comes amidst complex global economic conditions and its significant shareholder Viktor Vekselberg’s connections with Russian President Vladimir Putin, which have drawn attention since the Ukraine conflict began. Despite these challenges, Riri’s commitment to quality and innovation in the luxury sector remains steadfast, solidifying its position as a key player in the world of high-end fashion accessories.
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