Cecilia Basari has emerged as a distinct voice in the crowded world of fashion design, especially notable given the relatively young age of her brand, Isa Boulder, established only four years ago. Her brand reached a significant milestone with its first runway show in Paris during the spring/summer 2024 womenswear season, held in a maison particulier in Paris’ Marais district. This collection, entitled “Hardcore Handmade,” brilliantly melded handcrafted artisan techniques with a bold sensuality, defining the brand’s aesthetic.
Isa Boulder, despite its name, is not an individual but a fictional persona, embodying the vision and essence of Basari’s designs. Her creations, often misinterpreted as “boho” or “hippy,” stand out for their sensual and experimental nature, especially her knitwear and swimwear, which have garnered attention from Gen Z celebrities and influencers. The Paris show featured a stunning array of latticed knitwear in earthy tones, paired with satin swimwear and fine gauge bodysuits, culminating in a show-stopping macramé bridal gown.
Unlike many designers, Basari is not based in a major fashion capital like New York, Paris, or London. Instead, she operates from Bali, Indonesia, where traditional craftsmanship significantly influences her brand’s identity. Born in Jakarta and educated in Singapore and London’s Central Saint Martins, Basari’s decision to settle in Bali was driven by a desire for a different lifestyle and a deeper connection with nature and culture.
In Bali, Basari has honed her craft, focusing on weaving and knitting, techniques she didn’t fully explore during her formal education. This introspective journey has led to a brand characterized by intricate hand-weaving and an intuitive design approach. Isa Boulder started as a swimwear brand, expanding into womenswear and later menswear. Today, the brand boasts a 60-person team in Denpasar, handling in-house sampling and production to maintain the complexity of its artisanal techniques.
The spring/summer 2024 collection emphasized macramé, a challenging but rewarding endeavor for Basari and her team. The collection’s experimentation with knotted fabric in swimwear showcases their commitment to innovation and reinventing traditional methods. This focus on craftsmanship extends to garments with seamless tubular construction, a subtle detail known only to the wearer.
Basari’s admiration for designer Phoebe Philo reflects her commitment to staying true to her vision, avoiding fleeting trends, and striving for excellence in design. The recent Resort 2024 campaign, photographed in Bali, emphasizes Basari’s dedication to showcasing the beauty of her garments’ origins.
Despite the challenges of the pandemic, Isa Boulder has flourished, adapting to the shift towards online shopping and social media engagement. The brand has managed to maintain a strong connection with its customer base, offering a unique style characterized by meticulous craftsmanship and intimate, detail-oriented design. Basari sees her brand in a “teenager” phase, still evolving and refining its identity, but clearly marked by a distinct style and skillful artistry.
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