Mooncakes have long been a beloved tradition during the Mid-Autumn Festival, representing family gatherings and the sharing of treats with loved ones. Once a celebration of a successful harvest in ancient China, the festival now centers around giving mooncakes as gifts to family, friends, and even business associates. In Hong Kong alone, around five million boxes of mooncakes are purchased each year, according to estimates by local organizations.
Traditionally, mooncakes were made with a rich filling of lotus seed paste and salted egg yolks, and were enjoyed fresh. However, as demand has skyrocketed, mass production has become the norm, often at the expense of quality. In the past, mooncakes were more expensive and less accessible, with bakeries offering payment plans so families could afford them. The practice of waiting for the right time to enjoy mooncakes, when the salted egg yolk oil would fully infuse the pastry, is now less common in today’s fast-paced world.
Jayson Tang, executive chef of the JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, remains committed to the tradition of fresh mooncakes. His Michelin-starred restaurant, Man Ho Chinese Restaurant, sells freshly baked mooncakes with innovative flavors like winter melon with macadamia nuts and taro paste with a chocolate cookie crust. Tang’s focus is on delivering the freshness and unique taste that comes from eating mooncakes straight out of the oven.
However, for those who still prefer the classic salted egg yolk and lotus seed paste variety, the traditional art of mooncake making is becoming increasingly challenging. KC Koo, owner of Hong Kong’s Fancook, is one of the few small-batch producers who still uses 100% lotus seed paste. He explains that many commercial manufacturers now use fillers like tapioca flour, making it difficult to find mooncakes with pure lotus seed filling. Koo has to adjust his recipe each year based on the changing quality of ingredients, and he faces challenges sourcing high-quality salted egg yolks and locally grown lotus seeds.
Despite these difficulties, Koo remains committed to keeping the nostalgic flavor of traditional mooncakes alive. However, he acknowledges that the ingredients are becoming harder to find, and the cost of production is rising.
Vivian Leung, a member of Locofarms, also emphasizes the struggle of sourcing ingredients. Her team works with a local farmer, but unpredictable weather due to climate change has made it difficult to guarantee a consistent supply of lotus seeds.
While some worry about the decline of traditional mooncakes, others like Leung believe that the tradition will endure, even as tastes shift toward more modern variations. Though the demand for classic salted egg yolk and lotus seed paste mooncakes may decrease over time, the act of sharing mooncakes with loved ones during the Mid-Autumn Festival is a tradition that is unlikely to disappear.
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