Jayson Byles carefully balances on the slippery boulders of Kingsbarns Beach near Fife, Scotland, scanning the shoreline for edible seaweed. Originally from New Zealand with Māori roots, he wears Wellington boots, rubberized overalls, and a brown cap, using only a pair of scissors to harvest the ocean’s bounty. He identifies different species, including Polysiphonia lanosa, Ulva lactuca, and Himanthalia elongata, more commonly known as sea truffles, sea lettuce, and sea spaghetti. Each has a unique taste and texture, from the fresh, nutty crispness of sea spaghetti to the truffle-like flavor of shaggy brush tuft algae.
Located about ninety minutes north of Edinburgh, East Neuk’s vast tides reveal a rich variety of macroalgae clinging to the rocks. The best time for foraging is during the full and new moons, when the water recedes the furthest at spring tide. Scotland is home to over a thousand species of edible seaweed, though only about fourteen are particularly sought after for their taste. Some varieties, such as sea spaghetti, start small in early spring but grow meters long later in the year. Others, like sea truffles and sea lettuce, are at their peak in autumn. Only fresh seaweed should be harvested, avoiding anything dead, washed up, or with a strong fishy smell.
Byles first discovered edible seaweed in New Zealand and later moved to Scotland for love, working in the commercial seaweed harvesting industry before settling in Fife with his family. Since 2019, he has been running foraging workshops where participants learn about sustainable seaweed collection and cooking. His expertise attracts people from all over the world, and he also supplies a local seafood restaurant, the Dory Bistro & Gallery, in Pittenweem.
During a demonstration, Byles wades into a knee-deep pool and pulls up broad, fleshy brown algae, Laminaria digitata, which he prepares as seaweed linguine. Back on the beach, he cuts the seaweed into lasagna-sized sheets, creating green pasta that turns vibrant in boiling water. It cooks in just ten minutes, similar to traditional pasta. He sautés onions and mushrooms to enhance the umami flavor and wraps fish in fine seaweed before serving the meal to intrigued passersby.
While seaweed is a staple in Asian cuisine, it has a long history in Scotland, Ireland, and parts of Europe, once used in bread-making and cough remedies. However, industrialized farming led to its decline. Today, Byles emphasizes sustainability, advising foragers to cut leaves above the base so they can regenerate. As he shares his knowledge along the Fife Coastal Path, he is helping revive an ancient superfood that has thrived along Scotland’s shores for centuries.
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