Off the northeastern coast of Taiwan, a unique formation draws your gaze no matter where you are along the 60km-long coastline of the Lanyang Plain. This is the Guishan Island, colloquially known as Turtle Island, an awe-inspiring volcanic structure dominating the view. The island’s peculiar shape makes it look like a sea turtle floating in the Pacific Ocean, with its headland forming a massive triangle and its tail consisting of a kilometer-long jetty of loose, rounded stones.
Turtle Island holds a deep sense of connection for the local fishermen and the island’s former inhabitants, who view it as a living entity that protects the bay. Its tail appears to sway with the seasonal changes, shifting northward with the southern swells of summer and then back when winter currents reverse. From its head, sulfuric steam spews out of volcanic vents, reminiscent of the creature’s nostrils.
Taking a voyage to Turtle Island on an ocean cruiser is an exhilarating experience, one that has been attracting tourists since the 1930s. However, visits to the island came to a halt during the wartime and the following martial law under Chiang Kai-shek. Since the lifting of the moratorium on coastal tourism, the town of Toucheng, 10 km away from the island, has transformed into a tourist hotspot.
Toucheng is now the gateway to the beaches of the Lanyang Plain and has emerged as a top destination for day trippers from Taipei. With the influx of more than 1.3 million visitors annually, its beaches rank amongst the most popular in Taiwan. The town sees up to 1,800 visitors leaving the Wushi Harbour daily to visit Turtle Island from April to October, the summer season. A mix of smaller groups also embark on yachts for offshore adventures that include water sports, barbecues, and even the occasional romantic proposal.
The transformation of Toucheng isn’t just limited to its beaches. The town itself has seen rapid development. The once predominant surf crowd has paved the way for holiday apartment towers, many of which are listed on Airbnb, and it is increasingly being considered a suburb due to its short commute to Taipei.
Toucheng, named the “first city” and established around 1800, was the first safe anchorage for ships traveling down the rocky coast from Keelung, Taiwan’s north coast. It quickly established itself as a major trading hub, thanks to its access to the rich farmland of the Lanyang Plain. Even today, the reminiscences of its bustling past can be seen on Toucheng’s Old Street, adorned with elegant brick buildings from the Japanese colonial era of the 1920s.
As we journey around Turtle Island, we learn that this fascinating formation is, in geological terms, quite young. Its twin peaks first erupted out of the sea some 7,000 years ago, making it the southernmost volcano in a fiery chain that arcs through the Okinawan islands to southern Japan. The most recent significant eruption occurred 3,600 years ago, though minor seismic events were reported as recently as 1944.
With its mesmerizing beauty, rich history, and unique local culture, the northeastern coast of Taiwan, particularly Turtle Island and the town of Toucheng, offers an extraordinary travel experience. From the ancient maritime past to the vibrant tourism present, this place is a captivating tapestry of old and new, a must-visit destination for every avid traveler.
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