Historically revered as the epitome of French opulence, haute couture in Paris has been a beacon of luxury fashion since King Louis XIV‘s reign (1643-1715). Today, however, this grand institution is undergoing a transformative shift, embracing a globally enriched tapestry of creativity.
The autumn/winter 2023-24 Haute Couture Week in Paris heralded an era of inclusivity. The runway teemed with more than just established European designers. AAPI (Asian-American and Pacific Islander) and BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, people of colour) talents made their indelible mark, reshaping the couture narrative.
Lebanese designer Jad Hobeika of Georges Hobeika showcased a collection that married oriental nuances with modern aesthetics. Sequined gowns, opera gloves, and mesmerizing headpieces adorned global celebrities like Chinese actress Fan Bingbing and Saudi supermodel Amira Al-Zuhair. Moreover, global music icon Beyoncé embraced the brand during her Renaissance world tour. For Hobeika, diversity in haute couture is non-negotiable. Drawing from personal experiences, he believes, enriches the world of fashion with unique perspectives.
In tandem with Hobeika, several designers from the Middle East and Africa graced the event. Sara Chraibi, the Moroccan design virtuoso, unveiled a collection drawing from Arabic art history, while renowned Lebanese designers like Elie Saab and Zuhair Murad showcased their distinctive styles. Saudi Arabian couturier Mohammed Ashi made history, being the first from his nation to feature in the event’s official calendar.
The widening spectrum of haute couture also heralded cultural dialogues and sustainable outlooks. Cameroonian maestro Imane Ayissi intertwined Russian art inspirations with African fabric choices, while Japanese designer Yuima Nakazato’s “Magma” collection drew from his African experiences, encapsulating the beauty of diversity.
Ayissi opined that while the haute couture platform has traditionally been open to global talent, the stringent adherence to Parisian fashion etiquette rendered it elusive. But times are changing. Ayissi praised the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion for their increasingly inclusive approach, valuing authentic voices and quality.
Indian trailblazers like Rahul Mishra and Gaurav Gupta illuminated the event with their unique narratives. Mishra’s “We, the People” collection celebrated his “slow fashion” ethos, while Gupta channeled the Vedic concept of cosmic creation into his designs.
South Korean couturier Jisoo Baik, inspired by couture from bygone eras and modern maestros like Alexander McQueen, presented her collection in a Parisian salon, captivating attendees.
In essence, Paris Haute Couture Week is emerging as a confluence of traditions, aesthetics, and stories from across the globe. As Ayissi remarked, this fusion is a win-win, infusing Parisian couture with fresh perspectives and granting global designers unparalleled visibility. The future of haute couture, it seems, is beautifully diverse.
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