American designer Thom Browne made a powerful entrance into the Paris haute couture scene with a show that combined fashion, theatre, and artistry in the city’s renowned opera house. With a dramatic and unconventional approach to the haute couture narrative, Browne’s debut on the Parisian calendar was nothing short of monumental.
Rather than following the traditional entrance route, guests were led through the back door of the baroque monument, up several flights of wooden stairs, ultimately to the stage where the runway was set. The set-up offered a unique perspective, as the audience was seated on either side of the stage, adding an immersive theatrical element to the fashion display.
As the curtains rose, they unveiled a theater filled to the brim – not with flesh-and-blood spectators, but with rows upon rows of cardboard cutouts of a man dressed in a grey suit and sunglasses. This surprise element was a clear testament to Browne’s penchant for the theatrical.
The models paraded on the stage in towering platform shoes, strolling past a collection of fabric-draped pigeons, and pausing beneath a gigantic fabric-covered bell hanging in the center of the set. The ensemble included elaborate grey wigs, bird-shaped headgear, and bandages wrapped around their heads, reiterating the unconventional theme.
Browne presented an array of voluminous designs, balloon-like sleeves, tweed outfits, and pleated skirts paired with long coats adorned with pigeon and seaside motifs. The combination of striking volumes and intricate embroidery painted a distinctive picture, bringing together fashion and storytelling in a visually stunning tableau.
The current Chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Browne is celebrated for his signature grey suit. However, he has also garnered a reputation for his knack for showmanship and spectacle. This ability was evident in his Fall show, a Cinderella-themed display that concluded with Mj Rodriguez dancing in a pink Cadillac crafted from tulle.
Thom Browne’s Parisian debut in the haute couture calendar is an affirmation of his ability to push boundaries, blur the lines between fashion and art, and create a uniquely captivating spectacle. His collection exemplified a blend of his signature aesthetics with voluminous designs, setting the bar high for his future haute couture shows.
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