In the historic city of Kyoto, Masuda Tokubee Shoten stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of traditional sake brewing. Junichi Masuda, the 15th-generation owner, continues the family business that dates back to 1675, during Japan’s Edo period. The brewery is renowned for producing Tsuki no Katsura, a sake brand rich in history and lore.
From Rice Farming to Sake Brewing: The Masuda family’s journey began as rice farmers and innkeepers, eventually venturing into sake brewing to cater to travelers. The brand name, Tsuki no Katsura, meaning “moon” and “deciduous tree,” was inspired by a poet who stayed at their inn and praised their sake while admiring the full moon.
Kyoto’s Ideal Sake-Brewing Conditions: Kyoto’s abundance of high-quality groundwater makes it an ideal location for sake production. This, coupled with the city’s historical role as a commercial hub, facilitated easy access to large quantities of rice, essential for sake brewing.
Innovation in Tradition: Junichi Masuda, taking over the business at 30, embraces the responsibility of upholding the family legacy. His approach blends traditional methods with modern innovations. He has ventured into new initiatives, including designing a contemporary label for Tsuki no Katsura and exploring cask investment opportunities for aged sake.
A Family of Innovators: Each generation of the Masuda family has contributed uniquely to the brewery’s evolution. Masuda’s great-grandfather, the 12th Tokubee, was a history enthusiast who started using ukiyo-e art on sake labels. His grandfather, the 13th Tokubee, pioneered sparkling sake despite regulatory challenges, inventing a gauge to technically filter the sake and gaining approval from government officials.
Ageing Sake Like a Samurai: The family rediscovered the lost art of ageing sake from Edo-period texts, describing a process that involves ceramic bottles and exposure to seasonal temperature variations. This method results in a uniquely flavored sake, reminiscent of smoky sherry with hints of honey.
Return to Rice Farming Roots: Junichi’s father, the 14th Tokubee, revived the cultivation of the Iwai rice variety, a challenging but ideal rice for sake brewing, further strengthening the family’s connection to their rice farming origins.
Bridging Past and Future: As Junichi prepares to inherit the Tokubee name, he reflects on a legacy that has thrived through adaptability, innovation, and a deep respect for tradition. His journey, from learning how to roll up kakejiku (hanging scrolls) to understanding the nuances of sake flavors, embodies a commitment to the art of sake brewing that transcends generations.
Junichi Masuda’s stewardship of Masuda Tokubee Shoten is more than a continuation of a family business; it’s a celebration of cultural heritage, a commitment to craftsmanship, and an inspiration for future generations in the world of sake brewing.
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