Honoring a Culinary Legacy: The Life and Influence of Hong Kong’s Abalone King

Yeung Koon-yat, affectionately known as Yat Gor, passed away at 90 on July 31, 2023. As the co-founder of Forum Restaurant in 1977, he significantly elevated Hong Kong and Cantonese cuisine on the global stage with his celebrated abalone and seafood dishes. The Forum Restaurant, located in Causeway Bay, has proudly held three Michelin stars since 2020 and has been honored with nearly every major dining award in Hong Kong.

Adam Wong Lung-to, Yeung’s culinary heir and disciple for 32 years, is determined to uphold his mentor’s legacy. Wong remains dedicated to preserving iconic dishes like Forum fried rice, tangerine peel sweet and sour pork, and the braised abalone dishes that made the restaurant famous. “Our diners come because they want to eat these traditional dishes,” says Wong.

Yeung was known for his open-minded approach to both Eastern and Western cuisines, often experimenting with new ingredients. He introduced the practice of eating abalone with a knife and fork, a testament to his innovative spirit. Wong recalls how Yeung insisted on using only the finest ingredients, such as premium dried abalone from Japan, and how they experimented with new dishes like Wagyu beef stir-fry, although not all attempts were successful.

One of their successful innovations was the tangerine peel sweet and sour pork, a dish born from Yeung’s encouragement of creativity in the kitchen. This openness to experimentation even led to the creation of the three-Michelin-star cheong fun, or steamed rice roll, presented with premium ingredients.

Wong’s journey to becoming the “abalone prince,” a title given by Yeung, was not without its challenges. From his humble beginnings helping his mother sell eggs in Wan Chai to working in a clay pot restaurant in Kowloon, Wong’s determination and hard work paid off when he joined Forum Restaurant. His dedication did not go unnoticed, and after a decade at Forum, he was officially named Yeung’s disciple.

Although Wong has not yet taken on a disciple of his own, he continues to cook the restaurant’s specialties personally, honoring his mentor’s standards. “I always believe that you have to do the best in what you do best,” he says.

Wong’s new book, “The World of Abalone Flavours,” was launched to commemorate the anniversary of Yeung’s passing. It explores the diverse types of abalone from around the world, highlighting Yeung’s enduring influence and Wong’s commitment to maintaining his mentor’s legacy.

Yeung’s parting words and the symbolic gesture of giving Wong his glasses serve as a constant reminder for Wong to uphold the high standards set by his mentor. “Si fu is gone but he will remain forever in my heart,” Wong reflects. “I’m so honored to walk in his footsteps.”

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