Clarissa Wei’s passion for food is evident in her debut cookbook, “Made in Taiwan,” which seeks to distinguish the nuances between Taiwanese and Chinese cuisines. As a Taiwanese-American freelance journalist, she has woven stories about the food and culture of Taiwan for prominent publications including The New York Times and The New Yorker.
Wei’s background, including her tenure as a senior reporter at Goldthread, further underscored her dedication to celebrating and sharing Asian culture and culinary tales.
The heart of Taiwanese food, according to Wei, is as varied as the families that prepare it. Each dish, each method, holds its unique tradition, different from one home to the next. This reflects the diverse and complex history of Taiwan. From the influence of the Dutch in the 17th century to the Japanese occupation in the 19th and early 20th centuries, and later the influx of mainland Chinese during the civil war, Taiwan has absorbed flavors and techniques from each era.
First-wave Chinese immigrants from Fujian province introduced seafood, rice, and pork – mainstays in contemporary Taiwanese cuisine. Later, refugees from the Chinese civil war brought wheat noodles, scallion pancakes, and xiao long bao. Yet, the Japanese occupation’s influence is undeniable. From their push to make Taiwan a sugar-centric economy, explaining the sweet tilt in many dishes, to the shift in core condiments like soy sauce and rice wine, Japanese tastes have left an indelible mark.
Wei highlights how Taiwan, in comparison to China, uses toasted wheat in its soy sauce and prefers michiu, a clearer rice wine akin to cooking sake, instead of the aromatic Shaoxing wine.
Post World War II, the United States also had a culinary influence, resulting in uniquely Taiwanese takes on American classics like fried chicken. Popular dishes such as beef noodle soup and lu rou fan (braised pork over rice) may be familiar to some, but they are just the tip of the Taiwanese culinary iceberg.
Today, Taiwan sees a resurgence in its food culture, as young chefs look to indigenous ingredients to redefine Taiwanese cuisine. This change is both a testament to its ever-evolving nature and the desire to stay rooted in tradition.
In crafting “Made in Taiwan,” Wei collaborated with a team deeply connected to Taiwan. From recipes to photography, her team ensured the authentic essence of Taiwan was captured. Though born in Los Angeles, Wei’s childhood trips to Tainan, a food hub and former capital of Taiwan, played a crucial role in fostering her love for Taiwanese cuisine.
Wei currently resides in Taipei, yet her heart holds a special place for Tainan, where old-school street food thrives, even as the winds of change slowly transform it.
Her book, “Made in Taiwan,” serves as both a tribute to and a deep dive into the soul of Taiwanese food. It encapsulates Wei’s belief that food can be a window to culture, politics, and the heartbeat of a place.
To whet your appetite, here’s a classic from her book: Three-Cup Chicken. It blends Taiwanese rice wine or cooking sake, soy sauce, water, sugar, white pepper, lard, garlic, ginger, chicken thighs, fresh Thai basil, a red jalapeño pepper, and black sesame oil to create a dish that sings with flavor and history.
Simply begin by mixing the rice wine, soy sauce, water, sugar, and pepper to make the sauce. In a wok, brown garlic and ginger in lard, and then sear the chicken. Introduce the sauce, ginger, and allow it to simmer until sticky and treacly. Finish with garlic, basil, jalapeño, and a drizzle of black sesame oil for a tantalizing dish best enjoyed immediately.
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