Samaira Kavatkar, head chef of Hong Kong’s new modern Indian restaurant Nine One, is on a mission to redefine perceptions of Indian cuisine. Hailing from Mumbai, Kavatkar left India in 2003 and realized that abroad, many people viewed Indian food simply as various types of curry. “To be honest, I didn’t eat curry growing up,” she says, highlighting that the term “curry” is more British than Indian.
Kavatkar, a former paralegal, transitioned to a full-time chef in 2019. Her culinary journey began with private events and pop-ups, leading to a significant collaboration with Test Kitchen in Hong Kong’s Sai Ying Pun in 2021. She later did a residency at a pop-up space with Perrier Jouet, featuring regional Indian cuisine paired with champagne.
“I want to introduce the culture and heritage of East Indian food to Hong Kong,” Kavatkar explains. Raised by a Catholic father and a Hindi mother, she belongs to the Bombay East Indian community, an ethno-religious group with roots dating back to Portuguese rule in Mumbai.
The Portuguese influence on Mumbai, which was part of Portuguese India from 1535 until it was handed over to the British in 1661, is evident in the East Indian community’s culture and cuisine. Despite urbanization, the East Indians have preserved their traditions, including their unique culinary heritage, which blends Indian and Portuguese elements, often featuring coconut, rice, and fresh seafood.
Kavatkar’s goal at Nine One is to showcase this rich culinary tradition. Signature dishes include vindaloo, a spicy meat dish originally from Goa, and sorpotel, a tangy pork dish. Another highlight is the roasted bottle masala three yellow chicken, featuring Kavatkar’s homemade spice blend made from over 20 ingredients, sun-dried, roasted, and ground during summer. This blend offers a complex yet aromatic flavor, making the chicken dish stand out without being overpowering.
Among the unique offerings is a traditional East Indian dish called Not Curry, an aromatic lamb stew slow-cooked with vegetables and served with deep-fried dough balls. Kavatkar recalls a guest comparing it to a French stew, highlighting the universal appeal of her cooking.
Kavatkar aims to challenge stereotypes and broaden culinary horizons, hoping diners will come with an open mind. “We have a very rich heritage in terms of people, food, and culture, and it makes me sad when somebody asks, ‘Can you cook me a curry?’” she says. Nine One offers a fresh perspective on Indian cuisine, emphasizing flavor and heritage over the stereotypical greasy and heavy dishes, potentially becoming a favorite among Hong Kong’s discerning food lovers.
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