Tucked away in a historic brick alleyway near Seoul’s Jungang Market, just north of the Sindang metro station, Gosari Express stands as a hidden gem in the city’s vibrant food scene. The vegan restaurant, opened by Kim Je-eun in May, aims to challenge the stereotype that vegan food is bland by offering flavorful dishes that appeal to both vegans and non-vegans alike.
Upon entering the restaurant through its graffiti-adorned glass door, visitors are greeted by the enticing aroma of rich spices, immediately dispelling any preconceived notions about vegan cuisine. Kim’s mission is clear: “Food should be equal for everyone,” she says. Her goal is to serve vegan dishes that satisfy all palates, proving that plant-based food can be as addictive and enjoyable as any other cuisine.
The restaurant’s name, Gosari Express, is a playful nod to Panda Express, a casual American Chinese food chain. Kim wanted her restaurant to have a similar casual, go-to vibe, where people could enjoy a satisfying meal without any grand plans. The menu is centered around bracken, a young fern known as gosari in Korea, which is featured in the restaurant’s signature noodle dish.
Other standout items on the menu include noodles with fresh mugwort pesto and Nepalese dumplings with carrot purée, all of which are both flavorful and visually appealing. One dish that particularly surprises diners is the wonton soup, which boasts an umami, meaty flavor despite being entirely plant-based.
In addition to its creative food offerings, Gosari Express also serves unique alcoholic beverages, such as basil and rosemary-infused makgeolli, a traditional Korean rice wine. Kim explains that the initial concept was to create a space where people could unwind with a bowl of noodles and a drink, without being overly defined by its vegan identity.
Kim’s journey into veganism was influenced by her sister, who struggled to find vegan options in traditional Korean markets. This experience motivated Kim to open her restaurant near Jungang Market, where she could introduce vegan cuisine to a neighborhood that had limited exposure to such options.
Before launching Gosari Express, Kim had already made a name for herself with her start-up, Bad Carrot, which developed a popular bracken oil pasta sauce. Her ambitions continue to grow, with plans to create vegan cup noodles and eventually open the first vegan restaurant inside Incheon International Airport.
Gosari Express is just the beginning for Kim, who is determined to make vegan food accessible and enjoyable for everyone, whether they are long-time vegans or trying plant-based cuisine for the first time.
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