The Spring/Summer 2024 New York Fashion Week was a significant one, with Asian-American designers showcasing their unique perspectives and innovations. From cosmic concepts to intimate inspirations, here are the top six names to watch out for:
- Bad Binch TongTong’s Terrence Zhou: Zhou’s creations teleported attendees to the cosmos, highlighting tentacle motifs and a nod to interstellar fashion. Drawing inspiration from his background in dance, Zhou’s pieces — which have been adorned by stars such as Jennifer Coolidge and Rina Sawayama — harmoniously blend storytelling and design. His latest show used organic choreography, showcasing oversized dresses and coats with structured circular hems, emphasizing the emotional connection with fashion. Zhou expressed his aspiration to evoke emotions like those in musicals or ballets, pointing out, “Clothes may disintegrate, but feelings always remain.”
- Allina Liu: Liu’s intimate showcase near New York’s SoHo neighborhood was deeply inspired by the Greek myth of Persephone and the architectural wonder of the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Liu challenges the traditional story of submission with Persephone, emphasizing the empowerment in hyperfemininity. Her collection melded elements of sensuality, epitomized by her Shibari-knot-tying detailing, which finds its roots in BDSM techniques, offering a perfect ensemble for the modern romantic.
- Kim Shui: Drawing inspiration from her personal journey as a first-generation American who grew up in Italy, Shui’s collection is a celebration of the uncelebrated. With an emphasis on embracing the facets of femininity often marginalized, her collection is a vibrant blend of hues, floral patterns, sequins, and an array of luxurious fabrics. The essence of her creations lies in the celebration of feminine power and resilience.
- Dauphinette by Olivia Cheng: Cheng’s collection speaks volumes, literally and figuratively. Whether it’s a coat made from unsold clothing, adorned with various embellishments, or shoes screaming “Ouch!” and “Bite me”, every piece in her collection carries a message. Dedicated to sustainable fashion, she announced that over 50% of her collection was crafted from upcycled material. Centering her creations around the theme of “protection”, titled “Gods, Girls and Monsters”, she navigates the vast dimensions of the term, emphasizing both ecological responsibility and individual and social safeguards.
- Grace Ling: Ling, a rising star with recognition from significant platforms like Net-a-Porter Vanguard and CFDA, brought forth a surrealistic collection inspired by modernist art. From captivating 3D metal accents to garments that evoke the artistry of Hieronymus Bosch’s “The Garden of Earthly Delights”, her collection is a visual treat. The monochromatic palette highlighted with daring designs, like the crow-shaped bag and ombré fabric transitioning from opaque to sheer, promises Ling a devout following.
- Kozaburo Akasaka: Drawing inspiration from his Tokyo roots and his decade-long love affair with New York, Akasaka’s collection is a harmonious blend of East and West. His menswear collection, crafted with the traditional Japanese sakiori weaving technique, seamlessly integrates the vibrant colors of New York sunsets and Tokyo’s ’90s culture, presenting a fresh perspective on men’s fashion.
This NYFW season, these six Asian-American designers have undoubtedly paved their distinct paths in the fashion capital, offering a refreshing lens of creativity and culture. Their innovative takes on fashion prove that the industry is heading in an exciting and inclusive direction.
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