On a recent Friday morning, Keebo Edamame, a small Japanese-style pub in the back alleys of Namyeong-dong, Yongsan, Seoul, opened its doors to a crowd of eager visitors. Within minutes, the restaurant filled with patrons, while others patiently waited outside. One of the visitors, a 32-year-old named Jeong, mentioned she was drawn to the place after seeing its chef, Hyun Sang-wook, compete in Netflix’s Culinary Class Wars.
The popular show, which has taken the world by storm since its debut in September, has helped boost Korea’s food and beverage industry. The show pits 80 lesser-known chefs against 20 culinary masters, reinvigorating interest in Korea’s vibrant food scene. Namyeong-dong has become a hotspot for foodies, particularly since four of the 20 final contestants from the show, known as “black spoon” chefs, own restaurants in the area.
Keebo Edamame is just one of many trendy eateries lining the alley. Across the street is NY Chicken, a popular chicken grill bistro, and nearby is Via Toledo Pasta Bar, run by Kwon Sung-jun, the winner of the competition. This bustling alley, once known as American Meat Street and Steak Alley due to the US military base stationed nearby, has now evolved into a trendy culinary destination offering a diverse range of cuisine.
In the 1970s and 1980s, restaurants in the area served American-style meat dishes, using supplies from the military base. Dasarang Steak, one of the oldest establishments, still offers its signature steak dish cooked with butter, beef, bacon, and sausages, adapted over time to suit local tastes with kimchi and chives replacing traditional Western sides.
However, the area lost its appeal after the US military base relocated. Restaurants could no longer rely on military supplies, and the district quieted down. In recent years, the area has experienced a resurgence as young entrepreneurs opened trendy cafes, bars, and restaurants, making it a favorite spot for both locals and visitors.
While the revitalization has brought prosperity to Namyeong-dong, some locals, like Kim Sung-gyu, a restaurant owner who settled in the area eight years ago, are concerned about gentrification. Rising rents threaten to displace those who helped build the neighborhood’s reputation. “This neighborhood will continue to prosper, but many of us will have to leave,” Kim remarked, reflecting on the changing landscape of the once humble back alley.
As Namyeong-dong continues to attract visitors, the future of its culinary scene remains bright, but challenges lie ahead for the original entrepreneurs who helped revitalize the area.
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