French culinary icon Alain Passard has taken a bold and historic leap in the world of fine dining by transforming his renowned Paris restaurant, L’Arpège, into an entirely plant-based establishment. At 68, Passard is now the first chef in France to hold three Michelin stars while serving a menu completely free of meat, fish, dairy, and eggs. The only exception is honey, sourced from his own beehives.
This landmark shift, which took effect on July 21, marks a new era for the restaurant he has helmed for nearly four decades. Known previously for its celebrated rotisserie dishes, L’Arpège earned its three Michelin stars in 1996 and has retained them ever since. Passard has long been a trailblazer in the French culinary scene. In 2001, he famously removed red meat from his offerings to focus on vegetables grown in his own gardens—a move that set him apart as an early advocate of plant-centric cuisine.
Though environmental concerns played a role in his decision, Passard emphasizes that the real driving force is culinary creativity. “There’s light in this cuisine,” he says. “There are taste sensations that I’ve never experienced anywhere else.” The new menu features inventive creations such as mesclun praline with roasted almonds and melon carpaccio. A lunch at L’Arpège now costs €260 (approximately US$300), showcasing the chef’s commitment to reimagining high-end gastronomy through vegetables alone.
Despite this transition, Passard admits he still occasionally eats poultry and fish in his personal life, though he insists that plants offer him the greatest opportunity for growth and exploration. His ambitious reinvention echoes the path of fellow French chef Claire Vallee, whose vegan restaurant ONA earned a Michelin star in 2021 before closing in 2022. Vallee noted the intensive preparation and research required to create compelling animal-free dishes, calling it a “colossal task.”
Plant-based haute cuisine remains rare, especially in France. Yet with establishments like Eleven Madison Park in New York and De Nieuwe Winkel in the Netherlands proving the viability of vegan fine dining, Passard’s move places L’Arpège at the vanguard of this evolving culinary frontier. Whether he maintains his three-star status or not, Passard is clearly focused on pushing his craft to new heights. “We’re going to have to deliver,” he says. “If we can maintain this level of quality, then I’m extremely confident.”
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