Nestled within the urban fabric of Hong Kong lies Southorn Playground, a recreational area with a unique connection to the picturesque landscapes of Sri Lanka. This link traces back to Sir Wilfred Thomas Southorn, Hong Kong’s colonial secretary in 1934, whose early diplomatic career in Sri Lanka, then British Ceylon, intertwined with the life of his future wife, Bella Woolf.
Bella, sister of English literary figure Leonard Woolf, met Southorn in Sri Lanka, marking the beginning of a lifelong bond. Her book, “How to see Ceylon,” published in 1914, offers a glimpse into the enchanting beauty of Sri Lanka and serves as a guide for those seeking to experience its allure.
Colombo, Sri Lanka’s vibrant capital, welcomed Bella Woolf at the Grand Oriental Hotel (GOH), a prestigious establishment once frequented by luminaries like Anton Chekhov. Though the hotel’s grandeur has faded, its historic charm endures. Leonard Woolf’s tenure in Kandy, a city nestled amidst the central hill country, offered Bella a chance to immerse herself in Sri Lanka’s rich cultural tapestry. The train journey from Colombo to Kandy remains a scenic marvel, showcasing lush landscapes and traditional villages.
In Kandy, landmarks like the Temple of the Tooth and the Royal Palace resonate with cultural significance, while colonial-era hotels such as the Hotel Suisse offer a glimpse into the past. The Royal Botanical Gardens at Peradeniya, close to Kandy, are another testament to the region’s natural splendor, once explored by Bella Woolf and her first husband, Robert Heath Lock.
Jaffna, in northern Sri Lanka, holds historical significance for both Leonard Woolf and Tom Southorn. The Dutch Fort, despite bearing the scars of civil war, stands as a testament to the city’s colonial past. Visitors can explore the remnants of colonial bungalows and the Kachcheri, a symbol of bygone administrative power.
Leonard Woolf’s later posting in Hambantota, a less-explored region in southern Sri Lanka, reveals another dimension of the country’s diverse landscapes. The Government Agent’s Official Residence in Hambantota, where Woolf once resided, remains a hidden gem for intrepid travelers.
The union of Bella Woolf and Southorn in Sri Lanka not only marked a significant chapter in their lives but also influenced the creation of Southorn Playground in Hong Kong. Their shared affection for Sri Lanka’s beauty inspired the establishment of a space for leisure and play in the heart of Wan Chai, bridging the gap between these two distant yet interconnected lands.
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