A beacon of nostalgia was extinguished when Koon Nam Wah Bridal, a traditional wedding-dress maker with a century-long legacy in Hong Kong, announced in August 2022 that it was removing its iconic neon signs. The colourful illuminations had graced the skyline of Yau Ma Tei, Kowloon, for almost half a century, embodying the spirit of the family-owned business renowned for its hand-embroidered costumes.
However, the city’s ongoing crackdown on unlicensed neon signs led to an ultimatum from the government’s Buildings Department. It seemed that these vibrant artefacts, so integral to the neighbourhood’s identity, were destined for oblivion.
This impending loss kept Cardin Chan, General Manager of the non-profit Tetra Neon Exchange (TNX), restless at night. She had engaged in conversations with the Lam family, the custodians of Koon Nam Wah, about preserving the signs, but no consensus had been reached when the final notice arrived.
Compelled to save these iconic symbols of Hong Kong’s cultural fabric, Chan penned an impassioned appeal to the owner. Her dedication was rewarded when the owner entrusted TNX with the treasured signs. Consequently, the larger of the two neon lights now shines anew at Tai Kwun’s Laundry Steps, Central, forming part of a new exhibition called “Vital Signs.”
Co-presented by Tai Kwun and TNX, the exhibition aims to celebrate the craftsmanship inherent in these neon signs and elucidate why they are inextricably linked to Hong Kong’s identity. The exhibition, which runs until September 3, features over 25 neon signs, including those from other notable Hong Kong establishments such as the Oriental Watch Company and Nam Cheong Pawn Shop.
At ground level, visitors can marvel at these signs, fostering a more intimate connection between Hong Kong’s people and their luminous heritage. The exhibition transcends mere nostalgia, encapsulating stories of the master craftsmen, including neon tube benders and metal sign box workers, who poured their talents into creating these signs.
According to Chan, neon signs are much more than a mere manifestation of colour and glow. They embody elements of Chinese handwritten calligraphy and house hidden motifs common in China’s visual culture. For instance, the neon signs of Nam Cheong Pawn Shop and Tai Fat Pawn Shop resemble an upside-down bat holding a gold coin, symbolising good fortune and wealth.
Chan aspires to transform the neon signs collected by TNX into a time capsule that sheds light on the evolution of Hong Kong’s businesses and neighbourhoods. The exhibition is a tribute to the undying glow of neon signs that mark Hong Kong’s urban landscape, highlighting the urgent need to ensure their continuity. As Chan aptly puts it, “We can’t let neon die or diminish.” It’s not merely a reminiscence of the past but a glowing beacon guiding us towards the future.
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