Historically not renowned for its cuisine, the Netherlands is witnessing a culinary renaissance, highlighted by Amsterdam’s Michelin-starred restaurant Bougainville being voted the world’s best on TripAdvisor. This accolade is a testament to the country’s burgeoning food scene, as noted by Bougainville’s head chef Tim Golsteijn.
Situated just off Amsterdam’s central square, Bougainville prides itself on using predominantly local Dutch produce, with the exception of a few select ingredients like Irish oysters and Japanese wagyu beef. Chef Golsteijn, a native of Amsterdam, has been a key figure in advancing Dutch gastronomy. His approach mirrors the city’s evolution into a major international hub, drawing on the Dutch history of global exploration to incorporate a world of flavors into his dishes.
The rise of Dutch cuisine is evident in the growing number of Michelin-star restaurants across the country. From just eight in 1958, the Netherlands now boasts 123 starred establishments, placing it among the world’s top 10 in this regard. Golsteijn’s menu at Bougainville features North Sea fish, local lobster, and Dutch lamb, showcasing his commitment to local sourcing while also reflecting the global influences embedded in Dutch culinary history.
The chef’s creativity is on display as he transforms humble Dutch staples into Michelin-starred delicacies. A notable example is the restaurant’s take on kibbeling, a simple deep-fried fish snack, elevated using sea bass instead of the traditional cod belly. This approach challenges the often-unfair reputation of Dutch cuisine, which has been historically characterized by hearty, simple dishes.
The Dutch food scene’s transformation is not limited to gourmet dining. As noted by culinary tour guide Isabelle Nelis, Amsterdam boasts a diverse food landscape with over 180 types of cuisine. The city’s cosmopolitan nature has made it a melting pot of global culinary traditions, further enriching its gastronomic offerings.
Eric Toner, the owner of Bougainville, reflects on the stark contrast between the contemporary Dutch food scene and the simpler culinary landscape of his childhood. The evolution from traditional Dutch meals centered around meatballs, potatoes, and gravy to a more diverse and international palate marks a significant shift in the country’s culinary identity.
While Toner and Golsteijn recognize that the TripAdvisor award, based on customer reviews, may not place Bougainville at the pinnacle of global gastronomy, they appreciate its significance in raising expectations and highlighting customer satisfaction. Priced at €130 for a five-course menu, the restaurant offers an exquisite dining experience overlooking Dam Square.
Nelis believes the Dutch should celebrate their culinary achievements more. The transformation of the Netherlands from a country with a modest food culture to one with a rich, diverse culinary scene is a journey worth acknowledging and taking pride in. This shift exemplifies the dynamic nature of food culture, where traditional flavors blend with contemporary influences to create a unique and evolving gastronomic landscape.
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