The Togian Islands National Marine Park, Indonesia’s largest, encompasses 56 pristine islands and 132,000 hectares of coral reefs, nearly double the size of Singapore. It serves as a sanctuary for the critically endangered hawksbill turtles and the gentle dugong. Perhaps the most intriguing feature is the unique stingless jellyfish residing in an isolated lake, making swimming amidst them feel surreal.
For many, like myself, the allure of such a place ranked it high on travel wish lists. The journey began in Bali, then onto the port city of Makassar, followed by a second flight to Ampana in Central Sulawesi. From there, a ferry ride took me to Wakai, the largest village of the Togian Islands. Friendly local passengers and a playful group of dolphins made the crossing memorable.
However, upon setting foot in Wakai, the magic started to wane. Muddy surroundings, littered with tales of recent crocodile attacks, didn’t paint a picture of the paradise I envisioned. To add to the initial disappointments, the resort I had booked and paid for in advance had no pick-up arranged for me, forcing me to hire a boat.
Once at the resort, the breathtaking lagoon and dramatic headlands tried to rekindle my enthusiasm. The affordable lodging seemed like a boon initially, with a comfortable room and a scenic balcony view. However, the monotonous and less than satisfactory meals quickly put a damper on that.
Discussing my experience with fellow travelers, like Australian backpacker Ned Atkinson, it became clear that budget travel in Indonesia meant adjusting expectations. Yet, no amount of adjustment seemed enough when potential dangers like saltwater crocodiles came into the picture. My resort, and others, seemed nonchalant about their presence, despite warnings and alarming reviews.
Venturing underwater, the decimation of the coral reef became evident. Once vibrant and teeming with life, decades of harmful fishing practices, including dynamite fishing, have reduced it to a ghostly shadow of its former self.
In search of better amenities, I shifted to a neighboring resort. While there was an upgrade in food and ambience, challenges like lukewarm drinking water and the suffocating heat post-electricity shutdown at night remained. The final straw came when a delay in transportation threatened to disrupt my departure from the islands.
The feeling of entrapment, as Spanish tourist Nazario Salvador noted, seemed ironic amidst such natural beauty. When departure finally came, it felt more like an escape, leaving behind a paradise lost.
READ MORE: