In Portugal, salt cod, or bacalhau, holds an unparalleled place in the nation’s culinary heritage. Often referred to as “the faithful friend,” this dried and salted fish has been a staple of Portuguese kitchens for centuries, with a recipe for every day of the year. At Christmas, it becomes the centerpiece of festive family meals.
The traditional way to prepare salt cod is oven-baked, paired with boiled potatoes, but its versatility shines in various dishes like fritters, grilled fillets, and even cod lasagne. Chef Ricardo Simoes of Federico restaurant in Lisbon elevates these classics with sophisticated twists, such as cod confit with prawns and coriander juice.
Portugal consumes nearly 55,000 tonnes of salt cod annually, averaging 6kg per person, with one-third of sales occurring during the Christmas season, according to the Cod Industry Association (AIB). Supermarkets across the country showcase stacks of salt-encrusted cod in the weeks leading up to the holiday, a tradition rooted in history.
Introduced in the 16th century, salt cod was a vital, non-perishable food for Portuguese sailors exploring distant lands. Initially exclusive to the aristocracy, its availability expanded over time, making it accessible to all classes and earning it the nickname “the meat of the poor.” Consumption surged during the mid-20th century under dictator António de Oliveira Salazar, who subsidized fishing expeditions to Canada and Greenland.
Today, cod remains a symbol of Portuguese culture and a draw for tourists. “Visiting Portugal without tasting salt cod is like going to Brazil without seeing Rio de Janeiro,” said Brazilian tourist Jessica Baptista, after dining at Restaurante D’Bacalhau in Lisbon. The restaurant prepares at least eight tonnes of cod monthly, showcasing its enduring popularity.
Portugal accounts for 20% of global Atlantic cod consumption, primarily sourced from Icelandic and Norwegian waters. However, rising prices—up nearly 15% to €14 per kilo—and its labor-intensive preparation pose challenges for younger generations. The fish requires hours of soaking in cold water before cooking, a time commitment that deters many.
Efforts are underway to engage the younger demographic, as the salt cod industry, worth €500 million and employing over 2,500 people, remains a cornerstone of Portugal’s economy and identity. Despite modern challenges, bacalhau continues to represent a cherished tradition of resilience and culinary creativity.
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