Yohji Yamamoto brought his signature avant-garde touch to Paris Fashion Week, unveiling a Fall-Winter 2025-2026 menswear collection that embraced volume, structure, and poetic melancholy. The renowned Japanese designer presented a lineup dominated by quilted outerwear, with models enveloped in oversized jackets, structured overcoats, and layered ensembles. Each piece carried an air of effortless nonchalance, accentuated by models with tousled hair, moving deliberately down the runway, as if embodying the quiet intensity of Yamamoto’s vision.
The collection remained loyal to the designer’s signature dark palette, with deep black and charcoal hues reigning supreme. Thick, tailored suit jackets were paired with matching trousers, designed in a utilitarian style featuring cargo-style pockets. The looks exuded a sense of modern practicality while maintaining the refined craftsmanship synonymous with Yamamoto’s work. Some coats bore printed messages, adding an introspective dimension to the garments. Phrases such as “Despair is the conclusion of the fool” and “Sadness and suffering are the flowers of life” appeared as poetic declarations, blending philosophy with fashion.
Models moved with intention, occasionally pausing to allow the audience to absorb the intricate details of their attire. Some demonstrated the reversible functionality of the coats, removing and turning them inside out to reveal contrasting textures and patterns. The theatrical presentation was punctuated with moments of spontaneity—one model playfully blew a kiss to the audience, while another casually draped an arm around a fellow model, a striking woman with a frizzy, white ponytail, adding a subtle gender-fluid dynamic to the show.
Paris Men’s Fashion Week continues through Sunday, with a lineup that includes major French fashion houses such as Louis Vuitton, Dior, Hermès, Jacquemus, and Ami Paris. American label Willy Chavarria is also among the brands showcasing their latest collections. As the event unfolds, it sets the stage for the upcoming haute couture shows, where the industry’s most prestigious designers will unveil their most intricate and artistic creations.
Yohji Yamamoto’s latest collection reaffirms his mastery of deconstructed elegance, combining form, function, and poetic depth. His Fall-Winter 2025-2026 lineup captures the essence of introspection and resilience, solidifying his status as one of fashion’s most enduring visionaries.
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