Joy Poligon’s life is simple yet demanding. Each day, she makes the journey to her rice field, ensuring her family has enough to eat. As an Ifugao, she belongs to the indigenous people of the northern Philippines who have cultivated rice terraces for over 2,000 years. Spanning nearly 400 square kilometers, these terraces reflect a deep harmony between humanity and nature, earning UNESCO World Heritage status in 1995.
The town of Banaue serves as the gateway for visitors eager to explore this stunning landscape. Guided multi-day treks provide not only an immersive experience but also vital income for local guides, transport providers, and homestay hosts. A small conservation fee contributes to maintaining the terraces.
Michael Codimo, a seasoned Ifugao guide, begins the journey at the Banaue market, where he gathers betel nuts and dried tobacco leaves as offerings along the way. The trek starts near Cambulo, winding past waterfalls, tree ferns, and rustic huts perched on ledges. The first glimpse of the rice terraces is breathtaking, their intricate patterns carved into the slopes. Access to the village requires descending a steep staircase, with all supplies—food, materials, even everyday items—carried in manually or transported via makeshift cable systems.
Homestays offer a rare kind of luxury: simplicity. The accommodations provide basic comforts, but the true reward lies in the tranquility—no traffic noise, just the soothing sounds of nature. In the evening, villagers return from the fields, crossing a suspension bridge as dusk falls. Rice, the staple of every meal, is sometimes insufficient for self-sufficiency, making store-bought rice necessary.
Host Jordan Tundagui embraces the quiet, pollution-free environment but acknowledges challenges. His children will need to leave for education and work, and fewer young people are choosing to farm. Yet, the cultural significance of the terraces remains strong. Selling land to outsiders is unthinkable, ensuring the preservation of their heritage.
A school performance featuring traditional music and dance underscores the importance of passing down Ifugao traditions. The following morning, the trek continues to Batad, where the terraces cascade against the mountains like living sculptures. Navigating the narrow stone paths and steep stairways demands caution, but the panoramic views are unforgettable. The terraces, hand-built by the Ifugao people, stand as a testament to their ingenuity.
As the journey concludes, the path leads back to bustling Banaue. The weight of the backpack is heavy, but the memories of the terraces, their beauty, and the warmth of the Ifugao people remain, leaving a lasting impression of a culture deeply connected to its land.
READ MORE: