H&M, one of the largest global fashion retailers, is set to introduce 30 digital clones of its models this year, fueling discussions about artificial intelligence’s growing influence in the industry and its potential consequences for workers. The company is still exploring how these digital avatars will be utilized but has stated that it is working closely with industry stakeholders, including agencies and the models themselves, to ensure responsible implementation.
Each model will retain rights to their digital twin, allowing them to potentially collaborate with other brands and receive payment for every campaign featuring their likeness. While this approach acknowledges the models’ ownership, industry voices are raising concerns about broader implications. Equity, the UK’s performing arts and entertainment trade union, emphasized that AI-driven innovation must not come at the cost of fair labor protections. It highlighted the need for stronger union agreements and legislative safeguards to prevent the exploitation of creative workers.
Sara Ziff, founder of the New York-based non-profit Model Alliance, expressed apprehension about the initiative, citing risks to workers’ rights, consent, and fair compensation. She warned that digital replicas could replace a range of professionals, including makeup artists, hair stylists, and other creatives essential to the fashion ecosystem. In an industry where job security is already precarious, AI-driven solutions raise questions about the long-term impact on employment.
H&M is not the first fashion brand to experiment with AI-generated models. Levi Strauss & Co. previously announced plans to incorporate AI-generated models to complement human talent but later clarified that live photoshoots would not be reduced after facing criticism. Similarly, Spanish retailer Mango launched an entirely AI-generated campaign to promote its youth collection in mid-2023. The rise of AI-created influencers and virtual models is becoming more commonplace, with even AI beauty pageants emerging as a new phenomenon.
As AI continues to reshape creative industries, fashion brands must navigate the balance between technological advancements and the ethical treatment of workers. Ensuring fair compensation, consent, and industry-wide protections will be crucial as AI-driven innovations continue to expand.
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