The Dumpling Queen attempts to bring the inspiring true story behind the founding of the iconic Hong Kong food brand Wanchai Ferry to the big screen but falls short in delivering a compelling narrative. Directed by veteran filmmaker Andrew Lau Wai-keung, known for his work on the Infernal Affairs trilogy, the film features a glossy presentation and a highly melodramatic tone but offers little beyond a run-of-the-mill biographical retelling.
Set in the late 1970s and 80s in Hong Kong, the film follows the life of Zang Jianhe, the founder of Wanchai Ferry, portrayed by Chinese comedian Ma Li. The story focuses on her humble beginnings, starting in 1977 in Qingdao, Shandong province, where Zang, a mother of two young daughters, bids farewell to her family to reunite with her husband in Hong Kong after a four-year separation. However, upon arriving at the border railway station of Lo Wu, Zang is devastated to learn that her husband, influenced by his manipulative mother, has abandoned her and married another woman in Thailand, with whom he has a son. Faced with this betrayal, Zang decides to leave him and start over.
While the storyline touches on themes of resilience and personal transformation, it is bogged down by overused tropes and a predictable plot. The emotional depth of Zang’s struggles is lost in a sea of melodrama, and despite the film’s glossy look, it fails to capture the rawness or complexity of her journey. Ma Li’s portrayal of Zang lacks the necessary emotional range, with the actress opting for a humorless, stoic performance that feels more suited for a different genre entirely.
The Dumpling Queen marks a rare return to Hong Kong-centric storytelling for Lau, who has spent recent years directing “main melody” films for mainland China, such as The Founding of an Army and Chinese Doctors. However, his return to Hong Kong is far from triumphant, as the film ultimately feels more like a missed opportunity than a tribute to an iconic brand. While the subject matter could have made for an engaging and inspiring story, the film’s reliance on melodrama and superficial character development ultimately dampens its impact, leaving audiences with little more than a glossy, uninspired biopic.
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