Japan’s sake industry is facing a steep decline, with domestic consumption in 2022 less than a third of its 1970s peak. Yet Kenbishi, the oldest sake brand in Japan, stands firm in its devotion to traditional brewing methods, believing they are essential to preserving the quality and character of its sake. Located in Kobe, Kenbishi’s brewery comes alive every winter, when 60 brewers reside on-site for six months. They share meals and consume up to 1,500 bottles of sake by the end of the brewing season, reinforcing a sense of community and deep respect for the craft.
President Masataka Shirakashi, 48, hopes that the recent inclusion of traditional sake-brewing techniques in UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage list will reignite domestic interest in the drink. While only 2% of Kenbishi’s sales come from overseas, the recognition has strengthened Shirakashi’s resolve to focus on Japan, encouraging locals to reconnect with this historic beverage.
Kenbishi’s methods remain rooted in centuries-old practices. Wooden tools like the dakidaru—cedar barrels with bamboo hoops used to regulate yeast tank temperatures—are still in use, despite the sake industry’s shift toward metal equipment. Crafted by a team of artisans, each barrel is carefully maintained, with bamboo hoops replaced after every use. Though this maintenance is costly and time-consuming, Shirakashi insists only wood can achieve the precise temperature control vital to Kenbishi’s flavor.
In response to dwindling availability, Kenbishi began crafting its own wooden equipment in 2009 and now also supplies traditional tools to soy sauce producers, vinegar makers, and religious institutions. Most recently, it added komodaru, ceremonial straw-wrapped barrels, to its product line after acquiring two manufacturers impacted by the pandemic.
Founded before 1505 in Hyogo prefecture, Kenbishi has weathered centuries of upheaval—from rice shortages post-WWII to the 1995 Kobe earthquake that destroyed nearly all its facilities. Despite these setbacks, the brewery has never compromised on quality. Even during times when the industry turned to mass-produced diluted sake, Kenbishi refused to follow suit.
Guided by the philosophy that trends come and go, Shirakashi believes steadfastness is key. As he puts it, being like a stopped clock—right twice a day—means trusting the enduring appeal of what their customers have always loved: authentic, uncompromised sake.
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