The Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) stretches 250km, marking a division between North and South Korea. Despite its lush appearance, the zone is hazardous due to two million buried landmines, remnants of the Korean civil war in the 1950s. Surrounding the DMZ are military installations; the Korean nations have maintained an uneasy ceasefire for 70 years, resulting in one of the world’s most fortified borders.
At the DMZ’s heart lies the Military Demarcation Line (MDL), the true border between the countries. Two kilometers from the MDL in both directions, the Northern and Southern Limit Lines indicate the DMZ’s boundary. The establishment of the DMZ resulted in the separation of over 130,000 South Koreans from their Northern kin. Although a source of geopolitical tension, especially with North Korea’s nuclear developments, the DMZ attracts numerous tourists. Many venture an hour’s journey from Seoul to Paju City for a closer look.
From the DMZ, the perceived threats from Pyongyang become palpable, contrasting with the international allure of South Korean culture and the often humorous portrayal of North Korea in the media. Observers can glimpse North Koreans leading their daily lives, offering a poignant reminder of shared humanity despite political divisions.
Imjingak, a park located just 7km from the MDL, is a popular spot for those unable to secure permits to venture deeper north. The Mangbaedan Memorial Altar within the park is a place of homage for South Koreans separated from their Northern families. As access to ancestral tombs in North Korea is impossible, the altar offers solace. Created from seven slabs, each stone bears an engraving representing a North Korean province.
The park also contains three bridges, each holding historical significance. One of these, the Freedom Bridge, served as an exchange point for prisoners of war in 1953. Now, it’s adorned with hopeful messages for a peaceful reunification. Nearby, the Dokgae Bridge bears scars from the civil war. Visitors can cross it to reach the Civilian Controlled Zone (CCZ), a region extending 5-20km south from the Southern Limit Line. The CCZ’s entry is monitored, emphasizing the region’s heightened security.
Adjacent to the Dokgae Bridge is the Imjingang Railway Bridge, briefly operational in the early 2000s, enabling freight train transit between the two Koreas. The broader CCZ is accessed via the Unification Bridge, where South Korean soldiers inspect visitors’ identification.
The Dora Observatory, in the CCZ’s northernmost region, offers views of Kaesong, North Korea’s third-largest city. Once home to thriving factories funded by South Korean investors, the now-abandoned structures stand in stark contrast to the bustling activity of Kaesong’s residents. Witnessing this scene, some visitors are overwhelmed with emotion, as per Jung Hyunsook, a seasoned tour guide.
Near the observatory lies the Third Infiltration Tunnel. One of four known tunnels dug by North Korea, it’s a chilling testament to ongoing tensions. Discovered in 1978 following a defector’s tip-off, this 1.6km long tunnel could accommodate 30,000 soldiers hourly. A popular attraction, visitors can explore the tunnel, moving beneath the DMZ, approaching the MDL.
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