Once a neighborhood overshadowed by the glamour of Seoul’s upscale regions, Seongsu-dong has emerged from its humble beginnings to become the city’s epicenter of art, culture, and trendsetting energy. This transformation is not only a story of revival but also a testament to the endurance of the neighborhood’s rich history.
The vintage allure of Seongsu’s low-rise commercial buildings and townhouses is reminiscent of the 1990s. It evokes a sense of nostalgia, which resonates with the middle-aged generation, while simultaneously capturing the interest of the younger crowds. The term “newtro,” coined by Professor Kim Nan-do of Seoul National University, describes this phenomenon. It’s a blend of contemporary trends with vintage elements, which have become the heartbeat of Seongsu.
Going back a few decades, Seongsu’s identity was intertwined with South Korea’s footwear industry. Following the establishment of a factory by Kumkang, one of the country’s leading shoe manufacturers, in the 1960s, the region witnessed an influx of suppliers. By the 1970s, many of Seoul’s shoemakers had also made Seongsu their home. However, the 1997 foreign-currency crisis saw the decline of these establishments, leaving behind a labyrinth of vacant factory buildings.
The late 2010s marked the beginning of Seongsu’s renaissance. Drawing inspiration from transformations like SoHo and Brooklyn in New York, entrepreneurs began repurposing these expansive, high-ceilinged structures. A pivotal moment came in 2016 with the opening of Daelim Changgo, a cafe and art gallery. Situated in what was once a rice mill up to the 1970s, this space symbolized the blend of the neighborhood’s rich history with contemporary tastes. As if taking a cue, soon, many other cafes, art spaces, and trendy boutiques sprouted across the district.
With the evolving landscape, Seongsu quickly gained popularity. It became Seoul’s most hashtagged neighborhood on Instagram in 2022, with daily visitors exceeding 20,000 in 2021 – a statistic that surpassed numbers in the luxurious Cheongdam-dong shopping district.
However, this growth has its downsides. Many older businesses, once the heart and soul of Seongsu, now struggle amidst this modernity. While their vintage exteriors serve as picturesque backdrops for countless photos, many find it challenging to keep their doors open amidst rising rents and changing consumer behaviors. Indeed, commercial rent in Seongdong-gu, of which Seongsu is a part, surged by 42% in 2021 – the steepest hike across Seoul. This economic pressure led to the unfortunate closure of 90% of local handmade shoe businesses between 2019 and 2022.
Despite these challenges, glimpses of Seongsu’s past remain evident. Vintage motorcycles ridden by young enthusiasts share the roads with older delivery workers on their trusty scooters. Next to sophisticated pop-up stores, one can still find car-repair shops and small factories. Authentic Korean eateries, like Somunnan Seongsu Gamjatang that has been serving traditional pork bone soup for 40 years, continue to remind visitors of the neighborhood’s enduring spirit.
As Seongsu continues to evolve, new cultural pockets emerge. Rsg Wave Riders has become a hotspot for bikers, while Wadiz’s showroom showcases unique crowdfunded items. The neighborhood, in its mix of old and new, serves as a reminder that change and tradition can coexist, creating a vibrant community mosaic.
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