The railway station in Waghai, a small town in Gujarat, India, is an old-fashioned gem with whitewashed stone walls and a sloping metal roof supported by wooden pillars. As the clock nears 2:30 PM, a series of sharp toots from the NG Mix Passenger Special train signals that it’s time to board. My destination: Bilimora, on a journey through some of the most scenic landscapes Gujarat has to offer.
This narrow-gauge line, where the tracks are less than a meter wide, is a relic from 1913 when the British laid 63 kilometers (39 miles) of track to connect Waghai to Bilimora at the request of the Gaekwad dynasty. Initially used for transporting goods, especially teak, the line later served passengers after Indian independence in 1947. Though closed in 2020, local efforts to highlight the route’s natural beauty led to its reopening a year later.
As the train leaves Waghai, it picks up speed, and the landscape quickly changes from farmlands to dense forests. The rhythmic clickety-clack of the train on the tracks is soothing, as the scenery alternates between towering trees, thick shrubbery, and serene bodies of water. The first hour of the journey, leading to Unai station, is the most breathtaking, taking passengers through almost entirely forested areas.
The train’s slow pace allows for a deep appreciation of the surroundings. A highlight of the journey is crossing a bridge over the Ambika River, where the water flows gently between boulders and stretches into the horizon like a blue ribbon. The forest here is part of Vansda National Park, a small but rich ecosystem at the beginning of the Western Ghats, a mountain range known for its biodiversity.
Vansda National Park, once a royal hunting ground, is home to trees over 100 years old, including rosewood, teak, and bamboo. The park’s dense canopy and winding vines provide a haven for a variety of wildlife, particularly birds. While spotting animals from the train is challenging, sightings of cattle egrets, kingfishers, and the occasional buzzard or peacock are common.
As the train trundles through the jungle at a leisurely 20 km/h, it passes through small villages where children wave enthusiastically. The journey, though slow, offers a peaceful escape into nature, with every bend revealing new vistas of India’s lush wilderness.
The NG Mix Passenger Special is more than just a train ride; it’s a journey back in time, through a landscape that feels untouched by the hustle of modern life.
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