Milan was abuzz with anticipation as Sabato De Sarno, Gucci’s new designer, unveiled his first collection for the iconic fashion brand on Friday. With a captivating fusion of minimalist yet glamorous designs, De Sarno offered a refreshing take on luxury that Kering, the brand’s parent company, hopes will reinvigorate its sales.
The venue for this highly-anticipated event was Gucci’s Milan headquarters, a transformed former aircraft factory. In this evocative setting, models strutted down a dimly lit, concrete runway, showcasing a variety of ensembles that effortlessly melded traditional and contemporary. From short shorts paired with tailored suit jackets to strapless mini-dresses and sleek sweatshirts, every piece was a statement. Notably, the collection’s tank tops, marked by their daringly low necklines, were emblematic of De Sarno’s vision – offering luxury without ostentation.
Kenneth Richard, Editor-in-Chief of The Impression, aptly summed up the sentiment of many: De Sarno “knows what we need in the moment, clean luxe sportswear that isn’t cheeky sexy.”
Federico Giglio, at the helm of the premium fashion retailer Giglio.com, lauded the collection as a fresh perspective on luxury. He commended its wearability, devoid of excess, and in perfect harmony with the present times.
This runway show wasn’t just about introducing new designs; it represented a significant shift in the brand’s direction. The collection set the tone for what is to come, laying down a blueprint for the brand’s aesthetic evolution. This new direction won’t just remain confined to the runway; it is poised to invigorate Gucci’s sales when it becomes available to the public early next year.
Citi analyst Thomas Chauvet noted a distinct progression from Gucci’s previous style, suggesting that De Sarno’s designs could appeal to a mature audience and might even warrant higher price tags.
Ahead of the show, De Sarno shared his enthusiasm with a poignant message on Instagram. Using the Italian word “ancora,” meaning “again,” he hinted at rekindling a love affair with fashion. This sentiment was echoed in Gucci’s global advertising campaign, where the word “ancora” prominently featured alongside the Gucci logo against a burgundy backdrop in cities like New York, London, Chengdu, and Bangkok.
Despite meticulous planning, Mother Nature had her own agenda. A rain forecast prompted a quick shift from an outdoor event in the chic Brera district to the indoor Milan headquarters.
It’s worth noting that while debut collections often garner mixed reviews, they play a pivotal role in shaping investor perceptions. Analyst Antoine Belge of Exane BNP Paribas highlighted the importance of this debut in impacting views on De Sarno’s potential to redefine Gucci’s aesthetic.
Kering CEO and Chairman, Francois-Henri Pinault, emphasized patience, suggesting that sometimes a designer’s second or third shows hold more significance. The event drew a star-studded crowd, with Julia Roberts and Ryan Gosling among the front-row attendees.
Gucci, despite its unparalleled success over the years, has recently lagged behind luxury giants like Louis Vuitton and Dior. With Alessandro Michele’s departure last November, the brand has been on a quest to rejuvenate its image, aiming for a more sophisticated and timeless style. Following the show, Gucci’s CEO Marco Bizzarri is set to exit, with Jean-Francois Palus stepping in temporarily.
The unveiling had a positive impact on Kering’s stock, which surged by 1.5%. The brand’s shares currently trade at approximately 14 times projected earnings over the next year, in comparison to other luxury brands like Hermes and Moncler.
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