Chanel’s latest creation, “Kiss Me,” may resemble a sleek lipstick case at first glance, but it opens to reveal a hidden watch dial. Housed in a lacquered gold casing adorned with 20 baguette-cut yellow beryls and hanging from a golden chain, this inventive piece debuted at the Watches and Wonders trade fair in Geneva. The piece is part of a capsule collection that blends beauty with horology, alongside “Protect Me,” an amulet-style pendant shaped like Gabrielle Chanel’s kohl-lined eye, and “Give Me Luck,” a Byzantine-inspired necklace featuring rubellites and pink tourmalines. All conceal discreet watch faces, unlocked with a simple twist.
This trend of jewelry that conceals time was echoed throughout the fair. Van Cleef & Arpels marked the 90th anniversary of its padlock-inspired Cadenas watch with a new diamond-set edition. Designed to resemble a bold bracelet, the timepiece reveals its function only on closer inspection. Similarly, Cartier’s Panthère jewelry watches featured a leaping panther crouched opposite a hidden dial, with a gold version offering a more minimal look. These playful designs build on last year’s Réflection de Cartier, where time was reflected rather than displayed.
Cartier also revisited its classic Tank à Guichets, a 1928 model that eschews traditional hands for two apertures displaying the time as digits. Set for a 2025 release in gold and platinum, this discreet model reflects the growing appetite for unconventional forms. That spirit continued at Sotheby’s special sale “Area 51,” which presented 51 rare or uniquely shaped watches, from Patek Philippe to avant-garde brands like Urwerk. The auction totaled $1.6 million, signaling demand from emerging audiences, including Gen Z and more women collectors.
Pendant watches are seeing renewed interest, echoing their popularity during the 1920s. Piaget, Dior, and Jaeger-LeCoultre are among the maisons reviving this vintage form. Piaget’s offerings included ruby-root and yellow sapphire models, while Dior reimagined its Gem Dior line as necklaces featuring malachite and aragonite. Hermès, too, embraced the concept with a brooch watch set in a pink tourmaline and diamond-studded anchor motif.
Designers describe these creations as versatile, nostalgic, and delightfully modern. Whether worn as pendants, brooches, or layered on sautoirs, they offer new, imaginative ways to wear time — redefining the watch as both a statement and a secret.
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